Index

SJ23 Care and Cleaning of Sails.

Proper sail care is easy, takes little time, and can make a BIG difference in the life and performance of your new sails!

________________________ ULTRA LIGHT SAIL CARE GUIDE __________________________

Store Sails Dry and Rolled or Folded - When not in use, your sails should be stored dry and rolled, then gently slid into a sail bag and hung in a cool dark place.  If you decide to fold, don’t do this on the same crease every time.  If you do they will have eight or ten permanent creases, rather then thirty slight creases which generally shake out easily. Avoid high temperatures.

Dacron sails have only two real enemies: sunlight and abrasion.  Direct sunlight will eventually rot the cloth and abrasion wears it out.  If you must leave your sails on, make sure they’re dry and covered.  Cover any part of the rig that constantly rubs on the sail with leather or tape to prevent chafe.

Clean Only When Necessary - To remove surface dirt, hose them off with fresh water.  Don’t store sails wet for long periods of time, as the darker colors will bleed onto the lighter ones.

Washing - Should your sails get so dirty that you absolutely can’t stand it, soak them in lukewarm water and mild soap or detergent.  Rub over the dirtiest areas with a sponge to loosen what dirt you can.  Then rinse well with fresh water.  They can be dried flat on a lawn, but don’t let them flop in a breeze.  Never put your sails in the washing machine or dryer.  Don’t dry clean or iron them.  Don’t pour acid, bleach or other harsh chemicals on your sails.

Kevlar & Nylon  Sails - Both are extremely sensitive to chlorine (bleach).  They should never be washed with any cleaner containing even a miniscule amount of chlorine or rinsed in a swimming pool.

Laminated Sails - The adhesive can be softened by acetone, MEK and similar solvents as well as protracted immersion in gasoline or diesel fuel.

Dacron - While polyester (Dacron) sails are not weakened by most chemicals, it is best to use the mildest, none abrasive cleaner that can get the job done.  Some threads used in stitching may be more vulnerable to strong chemicals than the Dacron.

Nylon Insignia - A new special nylon insignia material, used whenever possible, has virtually eliminated wrinkles caused by number shrinkage or gathered stitching.  Should an edge or corner of a number lift up, simply press it back down and rub that area firmly.

"An Ounce of Prevention" - Should you poke a hole in your sail, it’s good to be able to assess the damage.  Holes the size of an ice pick generally don’t get much worse and can be left alone.  Tears an inch or two long aren’t too serious if they’re in the center of the sail.  These can be fixed temporarily by placing a piece of white adhesive tape on each side of the tear.  Tears near the edges or corners of a sail or near a batten pocket should be mended properly.  If in doubt, check with a sail maker.  It’s cheaper and easier to repair a small tear than a split panel and your sails will be a lot better for it.

Sail Slugs and Tracks - Lubricate with Teflon since it is dry and does not attract dirt.  Never lubricate with silicon since it is wet and attracts dirt, defeating the whole purpose of lubricating.

_________________________ CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF SAILS ______________________

By: Mark Olson
Howe & Bainbridge

Diligent sail care and maintenance can add years to the performance of sails.  Whether you race or cruise, proper storage and cleaning can mean the difference in speed as well as one extra season with those old "rags".

Over the past few years, sailcloth in general has become increasingly firm, starting with "conditioned" and "new yarn tempers" and now with "Temperkote" or Mylar.  For the racer or racer/cruiser, it is important to keep the fabric wrinkle free, so rolling or folding is best.  I am convinced that rolling "all" sails when possible is the surest way to keep and maintain the racing edge.  The best way to roll a sail is to start at the head and roll to the foot.  When folding becomes necessary because of size or space, hold the clew and tack and fold the sail accordion style toward the head.  One word of caution, always store your sails dry, as heavily resinated or firm sailcloth may soften up over a period of time when wet or damp.  Also, never let your sail luff when it can be avoided, as vibration will eventually weaken sailcloth and loosen shackles, battens, etc.

Cruising sails, typically much softer then their racing counterparts may be stuffed for weeks at a time without harm.  In general, when possible, store dry and cover as ultra-violet radiation can over a period of time weaken both polyester and nylon sailcloth.  At all times, common sense is the best guideline.

At some point in time, it will be necessary to wash or remove stains from your sails.  The following suggestions will help.

For the most problems such as common dirt, dried or caked salt, etc., try scrubbing the surface with a soft bristle brush and liquid detergent.  Avoid harsh powder detergents and stiff brushes, as they may damage the finish or stitching.  The approach should work nicely for most applications, more severe stains can be taken care of by the following:

Temperkote or Mylar sails are still new and experimental.  At this point in time, avoid most solvents, as the fabric will be damaged over a period of time.  Soap and diluted bleaches should take care of most stains.

Use all solvents with care.  Always rinse and dry thoroughly.  It should be emphasized that nylon rip stop spinnaker fabric is less durable and more sensitive than its polyester counterpart.  Bleach or solvent can ruin nylon if not used properly.

Follow the above guidelines, take your sails into your sail maker for periodic inspection and I’m sure you will have many seasons of racing and cruising pleasure.
 

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