SJ23 Tech Tip G06, (Issued 2003-01-17) Gene Adams | |
Dealing with Blisters. |
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First off, epoxy is the cure-all chemical for hull and deck repairs; don't even waste your time trying to find polyester resin. More often than not an epoxy repair done right is stronger and more durable than its polyester predecessor. There's a lot of history behind this. In the 70s and early 80s
many boat builders thought polyester resin gel coat to be the most
foolproof material for fibreglass boats. Many years and thousands of
osmotic blisters later they discovered that polyester resin was neither foolproof
nor, more importantly, waterproof. For the trailerable sailboats it worked
fine and is still used in many of the smaller boats today, but for boats
mostly slipped in the water polyester resin just wasn't the answer. Sometime in the early to mid-80s many larger boat builders began shifting
to vinylester resin. There are two basic ways to deal with blisters.
NOTE: Take extreme care with anti-fouling paint. Wear a mask. Capture the ground off dust and dispose of it as toxic waste. I have done several of these repairs and find the Interlux system the easiest to use. The hull must be dry which will involve hauling your boat out of the water. Drying it under a well ventilated tarp for a month or more is not uncommon. In very hot weather, you may be able to coat in two weeks. On the west coast we plan for at least a month. Use a moisture meter to accurately measure water content. Don't guess at this. You can also tape a piece of plastic wrap over a section when it is cool and see if condensation forms when the sun comes out. If condensation appears, you need to dry more. Links for blister repair; www.yachtsurvey.com/my_wet_hull.htm
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