SJ23 Tech Tip B24, (Updated 2021-05-25) Larrie Taylor, Phil Sutton, Alan Weld, Bob Schimmel, Tim Woods.

Index

Boarding Ladders - Five Designs.
 INDEX - Bolton Ladder, Alan Ladder, Sole Mates on Round Rungs, Panache, Tim, Gunwale Step
In 2000 it became mandatory in Canada to have a permanently mounted boarding ladder on a pleasure craft with a freeboard that is too high for a swimmer to reach the gunwale to pull themselves out of the water.  The SJ23 falls well into this category.  The rational for a permanent boarding ladder being that at the time of an emergency the rescuer is too panic stricken to find the portable ladder to render assistance.  This can be for a myriad of plausible reasons; stored in the 'wrong' place, left on shore, in the kid's sandbox, etc, etc.  Consider the predicament if everyone jumped overboard to go swimming, only to discover that NOBODY hung the portable ladder!  This actually happened in the Mediterranean where all healthy swimmers drowned around a free floating sailboat.  Why the rest didn't push the lightest person up to the gunwale is beyond me.  On a SJ23 it's a three-foot reach from the water to the gunwale.  Virtually impossible for the average swimmer, never mind an expert swimmer who is not tired.  Your other choice is to climb aboard via the engine, the anchor line or some other line you left drooping in the water.  Here's hoping you had the forethought to tie knots in the anchor line.  Good Luck!  Install a ladder!

BOLTON LADDER (original) - Shown here is Juanderlust's welded stainless steel boarding ladder.  It is the best proportioned flip up ladder I have ever used.  Larrie, the second owner of Juanderlust, told me the original owner designed this ladder in the early 1980s because most ladders at the time didn't fit an SJ23.  He then commissioned Bolton Stainless in Vernon, British Columbia to fabricate it for him.  The company built several ladders then stopped as demand dropped off.  The original plans were lost in a fire.  This was many years ago. 
When I contacted Bruce Bolton, on behalf of the SJ23 group, I provided the specifications after which he revived the design with an upgraded set of drawings for it.  With the publication of this Tech Tip the demand from the SJ23 group resulted in many orders.  To date quite a few satisfied customers have mounted a Bolton Ladder on their transom.

The best feature of this ladder is that it reaches very deep into the water to ease that first step up out of the water.  This is the most difficult step.  Many ladders fall short in this category, no pun intended.  In addition, the 7/8" OD tubing is very strong, even on dry land.  When flipped up, the bottom step is level with the top of the pushpit or lifeline for a neat appearance.  To improve the traction of the original design, each step is covered with a tough fitting neoprene tube as shown above.  Unfortunately the tubing on this ladder has stretched with age and it now rolls under foot, making it "difficult" to keep your foot on the rung.  So a better solution is to add flat wood or a vinyl cap on top of each rung. See step below. 

 

BOLTON LADDER (upgraded) - In the Spring of 2007 Phil and I installed the upgraded version of a Bolton ladder on his boat, Euryalus.  It looks much the same as the ladder shown above except that the rungs are flattened and capped with a superior vinyl tread.  Flat rungs are more comfortable for bare feet.  Round tubing is very painful under foot.  The 2" diameter mounting pads are 1/8" thick.  They are backed with UHMW spacers to protect the gel coat, through bolted to the hull with three 1/4" bolts and have a stainless steel backing plate on the inside to spread the load.  We sealed each foot to the hull with marine sealant.  The hinge plates are 1/8" thick equipped with a 1/4" bolt and nylock nut to ensure it doesn't come apart with long term vibration.  The open end of each rail is welded closed with a cap.  The bottom section flips up and incorporates a slight bend in the middle of the rails to stand parallel to the transom and the life line.  While it is overbalanced to stay vertical, it should be tied with a slip knot, to keep it in the upright position.  The bend also makes your first step up the ladder that much easier.  The bottom section comes equipped with two standoff legs that contact the hull at the lowest point.  The lower left leg on this ladder is about 1/4" longer than the lower right to match the curvature of the transom. The transom is slightly convex, not flat as many people think. 

NOTE - As good as this ladder is, it can be improved by making it slightly narrower and longer so it can be installed closer to the center line and a bit lower to make it easier to climb on board.  As long as the rudder does not touch it.

 

The Bolton ladder shown above was manufactured many years ago by Bolton Stainless Inc.  This company manufactures custom stainless steel hardware for the boating industry.  To view the current version of this ladder go to their web site.  I have installed two Bolton ladders.  It is absolutely top quality hardware. 

8176, Highway 97
Vernon, BC
Canada, V1B3W6
1(250) 545-6226    Fax: 1(250) 545-6244
 

ANOTHER VERSION - Alan Weld installed a new ladder to Elizabeth Jane's transom in 2014.  Installation was simple; drill four holes, seal them and insert hardware.  Other ladder owners report this model has held up very well over the years. 

 

 

Ordering information.  Search on Ebay for transom/stern boarding ladder.  It's been suggested that the 5 stepper ladder is too long to fit on an SJ23 transom.  If that is the case consider lowering the ladder so the bottom feet rest against the edge of the transom as installed on Siesta at left.  The longer ladder sure makes it easier to get out of the water.

SOLE MATES on ROUND RUNGS - If you have a ladder with round rungs the best improvement you can do is to install a flat step on top to make it easy on the feet!  Round tubing may be easy on the hands, but it is very painful on bare feet that are fresh out of the water.  The flat steps can be made from wood or vinyl.  Wood has to be clear coated to protect it and vinyl is virtually maintenance free and immune to UV rays.  Another technique is to install Sole Mates as shown above.  These are 6" long sections of flat wood (or vinyl) fastened at the end of each rung.  The end of each Sole Mate has a semicircular detent that fits around the vertical post.  It prevents the step from rolling under the weight of a foot.  You can make your own or order Sole Mates from WEST Marine, Model No. 490136 at $10.95 each, in the 1998 catalogue.  Bruce tells me vinyl steps are now part of the specifications for this ladder.

After I removed Panache's ladder I discovered that it was installed under a lot of strain that bent the metal frame and stressed the holes in the fibreglass.  Try as I might I could not reinstall it.  This is NOT GOOD!  I solved the problem with a combination of some slight bending, some fiddling with the leg length and added a spacer under the bottom left foot till it fit to the original drilled holes.  This of course is all due to the convex curve of the transom.  Another solution is to shorten the longer leg so both legs touch the hull at the same time.  All four feet should touch the transom at the same time.  Keep in mind that you require a reasonable space between the ladder and the hull for your toes. 

Some people have reinforced the transom with bracing from the inside.  While I haven't found it necessary there are limits to how much strain the transom can hold.  It would be perfectly fine to install some dimensional lumber to the inside of the transom.  Mount it vertical and shape it to fit the transom.  Saturate it with epoxy to protect it from humidity.  Add some bedding compound to remove hard spots between the wood and the fibreglass.  Through bolt the ladder to the lumber using large stainless washers.  Seal the bolt holes with butyl rubber or Sikaflex.  Awe you know the routine!

 

PANACHE LADDER - The steps on Panache's ladder are made from cedar to be soft on the feet.  They spend 99.99% of their time inverted on the transom where the groove on the bottom of the rungs traps water.  While I've drilled drainage holes I also regularly coat the wood with Sikkens Marine Cetol. 

As good as the Cetol is, I prefer to keep the steps covered with Sunbrella to protect against water, UV and ice damage.  A much superior solution.  Click here for a cloth pattern to cover the wood steps.  The ends should be left open to ventilate the wood rung.

Some time in the near future I will add a rope loop to assist with that all important first step, lifting your body out of the water.  The rope loop will hang outside the ladder so it automatically drops when the ladder is deployed.  You can't make this loop too long as your shin will pay the price when you foot slides under the transom.  Its an important point to consider.

 

 

 

TIM'S LADDER EXTENSION -  ("A simple way to extend the ladder is with a rope rung to make it easier to start the climb out of the water.  The rope is thinner than a rung but the first step does not hold a lot of body weight so is not that much strain on the foot.  Flipped over the top as show below is a convenient way to lock the ladder up for road travel."  Tim Woods).
 

ABOVE - The line is flipped up over the stationary portion for road travel.  It would be unreachable while swimming so is flipped off the stationary portion prior to sailing or swimming.  Just is case.  The flat rungs are easy on bare feet.

 

 

RIGHT - The loop of line tied to the end of the ladder.  This creates that first step low down step that is so necessary to start your climb. 
 

NOTE - Be rest assured that Panache received one of these steps as well.


 
LADDER SAFETY PRECAUTION - Tie your ladder in the up position with a slip knot and a three-foot long trip line, with the free end hanging about a foot above the surface.  This way a swimmer can release and lower the ladder to climb on board.  Practice this procedure the next time you are anchored in your favourite swimming hole.  It could save your life. 
 

GUNWALE HUNG STEP - Many people think that just because an SJ23 has a transom boarding ladder it's the best way to board to/from the dinghy.  Not quit so.  There is always less motion at the middle of the hull, making it easier and safer to board there.  If the hull is "sailing" at the mooring, I find it very convenient to let it float towards me and grab the gunwale at the end of its swing.  Don't go chasing the hull, let it come to you.  Just don't let the oar get between the dinghy and the boat.  There is a golden rule that must be followed religiously with a dinghy: ALWAYS STEP STRAIGHT DOWN INTO OR OUT OF THE CENTER OF A DINGHY.  So after many years of climbing from my dinghy seat into Panache's cockpit I finally copied a boarding step a friend built.  Don't ask me why I took so long to decide this but the sneaky guy kept it hidden from me for many years!  *

This step is simple to make and so effective to use because it cuts the 33" freeboard height in half, eliminating the sometimes desperate crawl over the gunwale.  When you are alongside in your dinghy, just clip the two hooks over the toe rail and step aboard in a civilized manner.  No more desperate effort to grab the winch on the cabin top or companionway rail to pull yourself aboard.  After you use it once you'll discover it is easier and quicker to use than the transom boarding ladder.  I store my step in the dinghy to get on the boat and return it there once I'm aboard.  I find it of little use to step off the boat, preferring instead to slide off the gunwale into the dinghy.  This design is very compact and floats.

CONSTRUCTION - Make the step from soft wood (cedar, spruce, etc) with round corners to protect the gel coat.  Its your decision if you want to clear coat it but I prefer the traction of the unfinished wood.  Drill a hole through each corner for the 1/4" line and adjust the length to about 10" down from the toe rail (above the gunwale of the dinghy) which is a good height to step in/out of the bottom of the dinghy.  Make the hooks from 3/16" thick stainless steel strap bent to hook over the toe rail.  Leave the opening of the hook a bit loose so it fits over the toe rail without marring the finish.  Drill a 5/16" hole through the long end of the hook to run the line through.  To keep the line in place tie a knot above and below the step.  This is not required if the line fits snug in the hole.  Tie a whipping around the line just below the hook to lock the angle of the step against the hull.  That's it you're done. 

* PS: The elderly gent in our club who I copied this step from, used to crawl under his life line and almost always beat me onboard.  He always chuckled over that.
 

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