Refinishing the non-skid coating of your boat deck is a big project, but so is the payoff.  Not only does it escape the stink-eye from any judgemental neighbour, it is a whole lot safer.  Here are some tips to help you get more time out of a non-skid restoration.  The secret to durable non-skid starts with proper application.

SURFACE PREPARATION - Proper surface preparation can make or break a coating, but it also directly affects the service life of a coating. Always follow makers recommendations.

To prime or not to prime?  That depends on the deck substrate being painted and the type of paint.  If the surface is bare wood or bare metal, plan to apply a coat of primer (and a sealer for wood).  A one-part primer is often sufficient, but a two-part epoxy primer will offer more durability and hardness.  Bare fibreglass requires a dewaxer, scuff sanding, and a coat of primer when applying most paints.  However, some paints like Durabak and KiwiGrip recommend primers only for bare metal or wood.

APPLICATION - The surface must be clean and totally dry.  After sanding, wipe it down with xylene, dewaxer, or acetone.  Some paint makers warn against using solvents, so be sure whatever you wipe down with is compatible with their paint.

When it comes to using a paint and a non-skid additive, it is recommended to combine the mix-in and broadcast methods to get the most uniform grit pattern.  Mix the non-skid additive with the paint, roll it on with a high-nap roller, and sift more aggregate on the paint while its tacky; once the paint dries, you can brush off the excess and apply a second coat in the same manner.  You can make an aggregate shaker by poking a dozen or so holes in the lid of the can, then up-ending it to sprinkle the additive across the deck.  Pre-mixed non-skid paint users can also broadcast the non-skid additive on top the coats of the pre-mixed paint for a more aggressive grip.  For increased durability, we suggest mixing non-skid additives with two-part linear polyurethane paints (LPU).

Be sure to keep the coats thin as multiple thin coats are preferred over one heavy coat.  Plan to apply the paint when there is minimal humidity.  If you’re headed for the tropics, choose white or a very light shade.  That teal non-skid that looks so great at  an air conditioned boat show will be a serious foot-scorcher in hot weather.

CURING - Follow the makers recommendation for dry time and be sure to allow the paint to fully cure before subjecting it to foot traffic.  This allows the paint to achieve maximum hardness, making it more abrasion resistant and longer lasting.

NON-SKID MAT INSTALLATION - If you’re installing a self-adhesive mat, application is a no-brainer.  Just be sure to position it where you want it before you stick it to the deck.  A contact adhesive doesn’t allow the small wiggle adjustments that epoxies do in application.

Testers also learned a few application lessons the hard way when installing non-skid mats with two-part epoxy.  The epoxy usually has about an hour of pot life before it becomes permanently stuck to whatever it is touching, so clean up any spilled epoxy with a solvent as soon as possible.

It’s also best to decide on the exact location of the mats before mixing the epoxy.  You can use paper templates to help in this process.  Be sure to leave a lip around the edge of the mat that is free of glue.  The epoxy will squeeze into a bare area when the mat is in place.

BOAT BATH - Non-skid paint and mat should be cleaned regularly to remove abrasive salt spray and dirt.  Wash with standard, mild boat soap or household cleaner and a soft to medium-bristled brush.  Steer clear of bleach and other chlorinated or acid-based cleaners as they can affect the colour pigment of paint or UV inhibitor.  Be sure to rinse the deck well with fresh water, when possible.

MOLD and MILDEW - To prevent mold and mildew, you can lightly scrub the surface with an ammonia/detergent solution.  To spot a clean area that is heavily soiled or shows mildew, you will likely need a more aggressive cleaner.  Pettit recommends its Bio-Blue 92; the blend of cleaning agents and silica grit can also be used to de-wax or etch during surface prep.  Durabak recommends fighting mildew and stains with a disinfectant like Lysol, and KiwiGrip advises using bleach or a mild acid solution to remove mold and mildew stains.

WAX NOT - While waxing can breathe new life into topside paint, paint makers do not recommend waxing painted non-skid.  Most non-skid paints and bead/powder additives have UV protection built in, and the paint formulas include UV absorbers, making waxing unnecessary.

TOUCH UP - Address any peeling or worn non-skid paint as soon as possible.  Most of the non-skid paints we tested are easily repairable with a bit of scuff sanding, cleaning, and touch-up painting to keep the coating from meeting an early demise.