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Cabin Walls - Install New Fabric.

If you intend to sleep overnight on the boat with the outside temperature close to freezing, (hopefully not below freezing) it demands a totally different set of solutions to stay warm and dry: insulate the cabin walls meticulously with closed cell foam glued to the wall, including lockers.  Lay rug or interlocking foam on the floor, add ventilation under the settee cushions, ventilate the cabin (day/night), and use a heater that vents to the outside.  In the explanation that follows I'm assuming that you will have the good sense to stay off the boat when it is below freezing and crawl into a warm pub somewhere. 

Replacement cloth for the cabin walls must be able to breathe and not rot.  In addition, you must be able to glue it to the previously attached foam or to the fibreglass hull using a water proof glue that doesn't soak through the cloth.  Quite a tall order actually.  If you select a water proof fabric (so the glue doesn't soak through), the main issue is the damage that condensed moisture and possible mould between two vapour barriers (hull and cloth) will do.  Two vapour barriers adjacent to each other is an absolute NO NO.  The rule of thumb for insulation is that the vapour barrier MUST go to the warm side of the insulation and the insulation must be able to breathe to vent moisture to the cold outside.  This will keep the insulation dry and prevent condensation so you can stay warm.  It is OK if the dew point is inside the insulation but never where the temperature can go below freezing.  This is where closed cell foam has the advantage to keep condensation off the fibreglass.

Since you are unlikely to insulate the inside of an SJ23 hull, which is a vapour barrier, you must take the opposite approach and install a fabric that insulates and breathes followed up with adequate cabin ventilation.  This is somewhat similar to opening your vinyl rain gear to vent perspiration out from your wet clothing.  You vent the moisture, to dry out, to stay warm.  In a cold climate dry equates to warm.  When you wear Gortex rain gear, the insulation is close to your body and the vapour barrier is on the outside.  However, Gortex keeps your clothing dry and warm because Gortex can breathe, venting out the moisture wicked up by the insulation.  You don't have to loose precious heat by opening your wet clothing.  This is the reason why I chose a fabric for Panache that breathes, can't rot and can be attached with a water proof adhesive.  Any moisture that condenses through the fabric on the inside of the hull will simply evaporate without leaving a stain, starting rot or dissolving the adhesive. 

SOLUTION - The first step to cure this problem is to glue a thin insulating fabric to the walls using a water proof adhesive.  Fortunately, this task is not too difficult and it really improves the appearance of the cabin.  The second step is to add or improve the cabin ventilation.  If you don't improve the ventilation, it is doubtful the repaired wall will last. 
- In my search for a suitable fabric I tried to find Ozite, a rubber backed carpet dating back to the 1960s.  It has properties similar to neoprene.  This solution was suggested by Hal Roth in his book, "After 50,000 Miles,"  in which he does a good job of explaining this problem.  Unfortunately, this rug is no longer manufactured.  Instead, I found another fabric (thin carpet) that is used extensively on the floor of bass boats, Bretlin Seascape Carpet.  It is a tough, washable, UV resistant, mildew proof, nonskid, breathable fabric (carpet).  The better equipped aluminum fishing boats usually have Bretlin glued on the flat plywood floor to create a nonskid, tough wearing surface.  This fabric looks and feels like felt but is slightly thicker and somewhat coarser.  The backing feels like brillo cloth.  Very coarse and rough.  You could easily sand wood with it.  It is fairly dense and yet is easy to cut with scissors.  Hence, it is an excellent fabric for the cabin walls of a sail boat. 

REMOVE OLD FABRIC - Wear a mask when you remove the old cloth and glue.  The tiny cloth and glue particles that become air borne are hard on your breathing passages.  If you still have any original fabric on the walls, it should come off with a gentle pull.   "It was very easy to remove the cloth from Panache's walls."  Once the old cloth is removed scrape off the big lumps of glue using a putty knife, chisel, wire brush or a curved Stanley Surform scraper.   (You owe it to yourself to buy one of these scrapers).  Try to create a generally smooth surface without removing hull material.  "I left the really solid, stubborn to remove glue in place.  I figured that if it didn't dissolve after 30 years it is there to stay.   The dried glue resembles PL type adhesive used in home building.  If you're a "clean nut" then by all means dissolve and wash off whatever glue you can.  However, I could not find a solvent for the glue and hot water made a horrible mess.  So I abandoned the cleaning."   In the end I let the cabin wall dry and vacuumed all surfaces clean.  The rest of the glue is not about to fall off, so it can enjoy the ride!

INSTALL NEW FABRIC - Stretch the fabric against the cabin wall and draw a pencil line over it where the cloth is to be cut along the perimeter of the wall area.  "I drew the bottom line precisely along the shelf and the vertical lines along the ends of each wall.  It helps to have an assistant who is familiar with cutting cloth.  Roughly cut out each panel about 1/2" outside your line and dry fit the cloth to the wall.  If your pencil line is still correct, then cut off the excess material and you should have a perfect fit that is ready for gluing.   I left about 2" of extra material along the top of the wall to tuck it well beyond the head liner to create a finished appearance when lying on the berth.  Sometimes I can be real anal about this stuff"  Continue with this procedure till all wall panels are cut and fit to your satisfaction.  Draw some aligning marks on the hull and the fabric for installation during gluing.  Use a none permanent marker. 

Spread water proof glue on the wall with a flexible trowel notched with 1/8" holes.  The idea is to spread the glue just thick enough to contact and hold the cloth without oozing through the cloth.  Experiment on a sample piece.  Apply the cloth to the wall by starting at one of your alignment marks and finishing at the other to prevent wrinkles.  Spread the cloth evenly, like wall paper.  DO NOT twist it.  With all the alignment marks lined up, (i.e.: cloth is in the correct place), use a big dry flexible sponge to press the cloth against the wall to work it into the ribs of glue.  DO NOT twist or rotate the sponge as this will move the cloth.  As the glue dries during the next few days, keep the boat well ventilated.  Man does this stuff stink. 

MATERIAL - In 1998 I bought Bretlin Seascape carpet from Eagle Hardware (USA home improvement outlet).  Eagle went out of business in Canada so search for Bretlin here.  They sold it in Ginger, Blue or Green on a 6' wide roll at $1.67 per lineal foot.
- The forward cabin needs about 9' and the main cabin needs about 7'.  So (6x10)' of the stuff should give you enough for port and starboard.  (insert wall dimensions here).
- In 2007 I discovered several other suitable fabrics with similar properties at a local flooring store.  I think many manufacturers now have similar products.  Its nice stuff to work with.
- In 2011 I bought similar cloth from RONA (Canada) who advertised it as a tough cloth to cover a 4 wheel furniture dolly that a mover would use. 
ADHESIVE - I used clear silicon sealant but I'm told that Henry 263 Outdoor Carpet Adhesive ($3.91 a quart) or Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive ($5.49 a quart), are equally effective and available at Eagle.  If you can't find either of these glues, remember to use one that stays a bit flexible when dried. 
- In Canada Mapei rug water proof adhesive meets the requirement. 

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