SJ23 Tech Tip F31, (Updated 2022-06-26) Bob Schimmel

Index

Winch Replace - Upsize the Factory Primary Winch.
Ever have a hankering to upgrade the tiny SJ23 factory primary winches?  If you ask me they look too small on the winch pedestal.  Maybe my attitude comes from seeing small tires on a pickup truck.  Lets face it, some vehicles just look better with bigger tires.  Panache's factory primary winches were Barlow #15.  This is probably the original numbering system that I think is equivalent to a #6 today.  I sure wish the manufacturers would adopt one measuring system!  It makes it very difficult to compare products.  The small diameter of the Barlow winches can be hard on wet 1/2" genoa sheets, wearing them out quicker than they should.  I realize I use oversize line on this small winch but I like the feel and grip of the thicker line in my hand.  I value my skin.  Anyway, I bought a pair of used single speed Lewmar #10 winches in excellent condition.  So lets install them.

The foot of the larger #10 Lewmar has a 4.25" diameter and the bottom of the barrel is 4.75" in diameter.  It perfectly covers the SJ23 winch pedestal as shown at right.  The winch is 4.5" tall.  This is the maximum size winch this pedestal can hold without resorting to an oversize metal plate on top of the pedestal, something I wouldn't suggest.  The problem is that a slack line around the winch can drop below the edge of the plate during a tack.  With a few turns around the pedestal, the sheet loads up and jambs against the bottom of the plate.  This will be difficult to release.  If you are going to add a plate, find a way to fill the gap under it to prevent this problem.

The top of the winch pedestal is 1" thick and the sloped walls are thicker than the deck, as shown in the drawing below.  Wow talk about strength.  This pedestal is definitely up to the task of a larger winch.  Therefore an extra backing block is not required.  Besides, the pull load from a sheet doesn't change with a different winch.  However, the mounting holes of the previous smaller winch didn't line up, so they were filled with epoxy to restore the strength and prevent wood rot in the core.

After assessing the pedestal and having experienced self tailing winches of late, my preference today would be a self tailing winch.  Lewmar makes a single speed, self tailing winch that fits perfectly on this pedestal.  I've learned to slowly ease the jib sheet without creating an over run, how to pop the sheet off for tacking and how nice it is to pull the sheet in without having to tail the line, so I wouldn't hesitate to change them out today. 

CONSTRUCTION - Having restored the top of the pedestal, I outlined the new 1/4" mounting holes using the Lewmar #10 winch foot as a template.  The winch drain hole was pointed downhill towards the gunwale to observe the golden rule of plumbing; s__t runs downhill.  There is no requirement to orient the base mounting holes relative to the direction of load for this winch.  It's always a good idea to verify this in the owner's manual as it is mandatory for some winches.  I used (1.5 x .25)" stainless steel screws (pan or bugle head) in combination with the largest washers and nylock nuts that could fit under the pedestal. 

  1. SEAL THE OLD BOLT HOLES - With the preliminary measuring out of the way you can proceed with the epoxy repair to restore the strength of the pedestal.  Drill out the old holes two drill sizes larger to clean them of gunk and prepare for sealing a fresh surface.  Wash the holes with acetone, tape the bottoms shut and fill the holes with unthickened epoxy.  Dribble it in slowly letting it drip from a toothpick so it fills the hole from the bottom up.  If you just dump it in, you will spend a lot of time with another tooth pick popping air bubbles as they surface.  Let the epoxy soak into the wood core.  The wood core on Panache was bone dry (good) and a lot of it soaked into the wood.  Don't be surprised if it takes several applications of epoxy to fill each hole flush to the top.  Each application will soak into the wood core, strengthening it.  Finally fill the hole with thickened epoxy.  I used saw dust as a filler working it to a ketchup consistency.  It's a good idea to overfill the holes slightly, creating a bump, as there is usually further settling as uncured epoxy is absorbed.  You might be lucky if the overfill shrinks to level with the surface.  If the epoxy cures with a bump then scrape it off flush using a sharp chisel.  If you have a minor depression, fill it with Sikaflex or butyl rubber when you install the winch.  Not a big deal.  By the way, filling the old holes with epoxy bonds the top layer of fibreglass on the pedestal to the bottom layer which actually makes the pedestal stronger that original and ads compression strength to offset the bolts.  How's that for convenient!  This is why it is a none issue to fill the old holes with epoxy and drill new ones. 

    - Fig 1 below shows the remains after I removed an old Barlow winch from Panache's cabin top.  The 6 holes were filled with G-Flex epoxy to seal the core.  The 4 outer holes were drilled out 24 hours later, leaving sealed sides for a new Lewmar winch.  Note the bubble of epoxy at each hole to allow for shrinkage. 
     
  2. SEAL THE NEW BOLT HOLES - Disassemble the new winch as per Tech Tip F29.  Drill the new holes using the winch base as a template.  Position the base so the drain hole points downhill.  Start a counter sink hole by twisting a full size drill bit till the full face just penetrates the surface.  Do this for all holes.  Now drill a pilot hole in each through the pedestal.  Drill the final hole 1/8" oversize so you can coat the inside with epoxy (use a pipe cleaner) to seal the wood core.  No sense taking a chance with wood rot here.  Once cured drill out the epoxy in each bolt hole with a 1/4" drill bit, matching the bolts.  Gently now, you must leave some epoxy to seal the wood core in the hole.  Using a drill is OK if you can keep the speed real slow.  If your battery powered drill turns too fast, then drill when the battery is almost dead.  (applies to Ni-Cad battery only).
     
  3. MOUNT THE WINCH - Service the winch (Tech Tip F29) before you install it.  Once the epoxy is cured (24 hrs) you can install the winch use butyl rubber under the base to seal the holes and to provide a uniform bedding surface.  If you like to remove the winch for routine maintenance, use a sealant to facilitate easy removal.  If the winch will be serviced while mounted on the boat then you can use an adhesive, as removal is not required.  The best tool for tightening the nylock nuts underneath is a 16" long nut driver.  To install the nuts and bolts on your own you must have the arms of an orangutan or be extremely dexterous.  The reach is incredible.  Save your back and find someone to crawl inside the locker!  You handle the screw driver on deck and apply the sealant under the screw heads.  After all, somebody has to do the technical stuff!  Have the helper turn the nut while you hold the screw still to retain the sealant under the head.  Remember to tighten just a bit beyond snug and no more.  If you turn any tighter you are apt to squeeze the sealant out (jeopardizing the water tight seal) or crush the pedestal.  Wipe off the excess sealant that oozes out, leaving a filet all around the base.  Ensure that the drain hole is free of sealant so water can flow out.  This is real important for a freezing climate.   OK, now is the time to treat the kid for his good work!

TYPICAL STEPS to REPLACE a CABIN TOP HALYARD WINCH (2022).

This job is an example of replacing a winch using different mounting holes, going from a rectangle to a square.  There is no orientation requirement for the new Lewmar winch so I reused two holes that match.  The bores of the four outer holes were sealed with epoxy to protect the wood core and add compression strength for the mounting bolts.  The two inner holes were filled to restore strength and left sealed. 
 

Fig 1 - Use the winch base as a template to locate the two outer holes.  Sanitize all holes with acetone for maximum adhesion of the epoxy.

The winch holes were drilled 1/8" larger than the required 1/4" and slightly over filled with epoxy, creating a dome that was later sheared off flush with a sharp chisel.
 

Fig 2 - The bottom of the holes were sealed with duct tape.  The bulge shows where epoxy started to creep, alarmingly fast despite its thick viscosity.


 

Fig 3 - The duct tape leaked and I had to think quick.  So I pressed the tape against the ceiling with part of my favourite sponge and the mooring pole.  Paper towel was on the settee to catch a drip.


 

Fig 4 - Fortunately the sponge and pole held till the epoxy cured.  Below is epoxy cured with the tape removed.  Note how far the epoxy crept in only 10 minutes, prior to the tape being pressed against the ceiling.  All the excess was picked off while the epoxy was still green, leaving a clean ceiling.

 

NOTE - I learned a valuable lesson doing this job about testing my technique.  On a later epoxy job I used Gorilla Tape and had zero leakage.  See Tech Tip F06.  As always, testing, practice and preparation is everything. 

Fig 5 - Step drilling epoxy to fit 1/4" screws.  Use winch base as template to center the machine screws.


 

Fig 6 - Seal winch base and screws with butyl rubber.


 

Fig 7 - Butyl rubber trimmed off and nuts tightened below.


 

Fig 8 - The new winch securely mounted and sealed.  It spins nice.  All the winches on Panache are now Lewmar.

NOTE - The aluminum cap on this Lewmar winch is my fabrication as I couldn't find a factory cap.  Use a compass to outline the hole and perimeter of the disk.  Drill the hole and cut the disk to machine fit the winch.  Accuracy here is everything.  Place the disk on top of a pipe with a diameter that matches the OD of the disk.  Then center a 1.25" socket over the hole and give it a light "tap".  One or two taps is sufficient to create a slight "cone" that sheds water.

When installing a winch, it must be mounted on a smooth, flat surface for strength.  The sheet should enter the drum up at an angle of 5-10° below the base angle.  This angle can be achieved by using a low profile turning block (small) on the track or by installing a wedge under the winch to tip it away from the sheet.  An override on a winch is caused by the sheet lead being too level as it strikes the winch drum.  A large genoa car often raises the sheet angle of the deck, making the sheet lead too high as it strikes the winch drum.  Too many initial turns on the drum plus an over sized sheet exacerbate the problem.  The SJ23 pedestal elevates the winch so the sheet usually strikes at the bottom of the winch drum.  It is a perfect match with a Merriman car that has a really wide sheave, sits really low and you can run two sheets through one if you need a quickie place to set up a new jib.  When you tack a jib, set one turn on the winch, pull in the majority of the sheet, then add a turn or two after the tack is complete to pull in the last bit of line, and finally wrap it around the cleat.  Thick fuzzy yacht braid sheets are nice on the hands, but they tend to override because they are sticky around the winch. 

Click here to view the pattern for a Sunbrella cover for this winch (not to scale).
 

PRIMARY WINCH (1998)
 

 Original Factory Barlow #15 winch

 
The Barlow #15 has a 3.25" diameter foot. 
 

Lewmar #10 single speed winch


The Lewmar has a 4.25" diameter foot.
 

Note the size difference of the Barlow winch on the left and the Lewmar on the right.  The best part is, I still get to use my favourite Lewmar locking winch handle.  By the way, Lewmar "acquired" Barlow and Barient, quite a few years ago and to the best of my knowledge have never manufactured spare parts for either brand.  So take care when doing winch maintenance. 

CONCLUSION - I find the larger winch much easier to use despite the fact that it has a lower mechanical advantage.  This surprised me but I think it has a lot to do with the large roller bearings (easier to turn than bushings) or the fact that the drum diameter matches the minimum radius of the 1/2" sheet I use.  It could also be the gear ratio, Lewmar Power Ratio = 2 handle lengths X gear ratio.  Regardless, as old and flexible as my sheets are, they don't slip off the larger winch when I tack.  This is a godsend when sailing single handed.  The last thing I need when the action get dicey is something as frustrating as a sheet that slips or pops off a winch.
NOTE 1:  The factory cabin top winches are Barlow #15 or a Lewmar #6. 

SAFETY - You shouldn't sail with a handle locked in a winch.  I realize it seldom happens, but if the winch ratchet lets go and you are within the turning radius of the handle, you will receive a nasty whack.  If the line is wrapped around a cleat past the winch, there is minimal chance it can whack you.  This is the main reason why I cleat a line on a self tailing winch if the boat is trimmed and expected to stay on the current heading for any length of time.  On the race course the winch is always manned and the free end of the line is held by a deck ape.  On a cruising boat, the winch handle should be stored in the holder.
 

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