SJ23 Tech Tip C04, (Updated 2024-02-07) Bob Schimmel | |
Forward Cabin Layout, Panache. INDEX - Cushions, Backrests, Speakers & Pole Storage. |
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Cushions - In 2000 I replaced Panache's
aging settee cushions with 3" thick medium density urethane foam. This left
enough ceiling height for a 5'10" tall person to sit comfortably with adequate support
for sleeping without bottoming out (170 lbs). See
Tech Tip C08 for dimensions.
All covers were replaced at the same time.
All the cushions were covered at the same time. The top and front is Olefin, a high quality fabric that resists wearing out. The bottom, back and ends are covered with a high density vinyl cloth. I chose vinyl for the bottom so the foam wouldn't wick up water that flows to the settee. This way I can stay high and dry during the night. This has been a wise decision on more than one occasion! I usually flip them over for dining to protect the fabric from spills during meal time. Wiping up a spill on vinyl is easy. There is a #4 vinyl zipper around the back for removing the covers for cleaning. UPDATE
- My original design called for two cushions on each settee so I didn’t have to move stuff off or ask a person to move to access the storage below. Short cushions would also make it easier to pack things away in the cabin for winter storage. Unfortunately I ran short of cloth and opted for
long single cushions. This created improved sleeping comfort.
Backrests
-
The original factory backrests that covered each opening were made
of 1/2" plywood covered with foam and fabric, stapled a
zillion times at the back. They looked very 1970'ish, so
they had to go! There was also a low fiddle along the edge of the shelf
to keep the stuff there when the boat heeled. Construction - The back rest door hinges are positioned at the bottom, level with the tops of the cushions. Positioned as such a door flips down to lie flat on the cushion. I used stainless steel hinges, veneer for the edges and teak finger pulls in the holes to prevent splinters. The finger pulls were expensive but they improved the appearance so much that it was worth it. All the teak is coated with hand rubbed satin tung oil for a very durable, washable finish. Now I have a smooth wall to sleep against and a slightly wider berth to lie on. With my 5' 10" height I don't have sufficient headroom for sitting. So I slump a bit and stuff a cushion behind my back. This works OK, but I find it much more comfortable to sit upright against the bulkhead (full head height) with my legs extended along the bunk. The cushions are also handy for those guests who are inclined to spend a little longer drinking their grog on a rainy day. EVERY BOAT has its compromises! TOP
Speaker Enclosures
- A
peek at the photo above reveals a speaker
installed in the top of the bulkhead. This was done by the
previous owner. While I would never
recommend cutting a 5" diameter hole into a load-bearing bulkhead, the plywood
has shown no sign of fatigue. I'm sure this has a lot to do with the fact that I
smoothed the inside of the hole round to distribute the forces uniformly and saturated
the wood with epoxy to strengthen it. Construction - Here is my original pencil sketch for building the speaker enclosures. Please verify the measurements for your installation. I used 3/8" thick solid oak to build the enclosures and Minwax cherry stain to match the teak. TOP Sleeping Bag Storage - I store a light polyester sleeping bag on the forward side of each bulkhead, one with a pillow in an old sail bag. They are loosely stuffed in their bag to preserve the loft and stay bone dry to be warm at night.
Whisker & Mooring Pole Storage- Most small cruisers lack proper storage for whisker, spinnaker or mooring poles. They are always in the way. Another compromise? The design on the right has served me well since I installed it. No more stubbing my toes on deck! Moreover, my son always knows where to find the mooring pole, which is his job. The poles have never come off their hooks, regardless of how rough the water is and they never make noise. They also double as a handy clothes-drying rack! Construction - To mount the hooks I installed a (1x2)" piece of teak with the top end wedged behind the roof liner and the bottom end wedged behind the teak fiddle on the ledge. The back is shaped to match the curvature of the hull. The teak is fastened with stainless screws at the top through the hull liner and at the bottom through the teak fiddle. The J hooks that hold the poles are made from 1" wide stainless steel strapping that I bent into a 1700 curve with a 1.5" inside diameter. They are fastened to the teak straps with two screws to prevent turning. I applied vinyl electrical tape on the inside of each J hook to protect the pole from scratching. Leave sufficient space between the upper and lower J hooks to conveniently remove the lower pole. I suppose you could add a third set of hooks for a fishing rod but I thought this would make access to the narrow shelf difficult. There is nothing wrong with installing a fishing rod holder on the port side though!
This is a pretty clever way to store a collapsible mooring pole. Right where you need it most of the time. Yes that is Panache in the background. TOP
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