Index

Roller Furling for Panache.
Index - Harken 00AL, CDI FF2, Hood Seaflex, Selden/Furlex, Alado.
PANACHE INSTALLATION - Schaefer CF-500, A new Forestay, Assemble Furler, Furling Control Line.
Replace a Damaged Forestay, Reference Links.
 

VARIOUS FURLERS TO CONSIDER FOR AN SJ23 - The difficulties of designing a strong furling system that can be shipped easily have been solved.  Two techniques have evolved; sectional aluminum extrusions that are screwed together for installation or a flexible vinyl extrusion that is rolled in a coil for shipping and cut to length for installation.  Hence the term flexible furler.  The furlers shown in this Tech Tip are operational on various SJ23s.  See Tech Tip H02 for rigging specifications to assist you in choosing a furler.     TOP 

HARKEN 00AL -  This sectional furler (shown at right) has the following features;

The entire system can be removed from the forestay but it would be a lot of work.  (Harken furling 101)

"The roller furling on Sail Boar is a Harken 00AL.  It has a flexible two track foil and the furling drum is a split design that can be removed for trailering or racing.  This frees up the full length of the forestay to attach the largest jib possible.  I purchased the Harken 00 from the North Sails, Vancouver loft for approximately $1000 CA, (1996).  Dave Miller at North Sails also removed the extra roundness of my 135 genoa and installed UV protection along the leech and foot for about $250.  The loft needs the forestay length of the furling system to modify the sail.  The installation of the furling gear is fairly routine since the system uses the existing forestay and turnbuckle.  While Harken says, "It should not be necessary to install a halyard restrainer at the masthead," they are wrong.  This is essential, unless you enjoy running up the mast to clear a wrap!  

The Harken 00AL works very well for single-handed sailing.  The furling control line is fed back along a lifeline to the cockpit.   My converted 135% genoa still has reasonable shape when partially furled.  On Dave Miller's advice, I also converted a "Blade" as a heavy weather sail but so far have not hoisted it.  From my experience the Harken system is built first class and virtually bullet proof."  Stan Franklin.

PREVENT a HALYARD WRAP - A wrap can be a real nuisance when you can't undo it, leading to forestay failure in a worst case scenario.  Take every precaution you can to prevent one.  "The extra block installed on the mast for the halyard is a modification I made after the Harken 00AL roller furling was installed.  The jib halyard (green tracer) and the forestay through the furling foil were almost parallel to each other.  The forestay (pulled away from mast for visibility) is attached just above the green halyard.  Because they were almost parallel, there was a risk of wrapping the halyard around the forestay when operating the furling system.  It never actually happened but came pretty close a few times.  The solution was to add the block on the mast and run the halyard through it, thereby increasing the angle between the head stay and the halyard."  Ralph Fuchs.    TOP  

CDI FF2 - In 2012 I helped install a CDI FF2 flexible furling system on a friend's MacGregor and was impressed with the robust simplicity of the hardware.  Especially the one piece tough vinyl foil that has incredibly high torque properties.  This was my first time to install a flexible furler.  Once assembled it was easy to push the drum and foil up to adjust the turnbuckle.  Overall this is a very clever design that fully incorporates the kiss principle.  I've since seen this system installed on other sailboats, all operating with no problem.  The hardware can be removed from the forestay.  It comes with a life time warranty to the original owner.  Bob Schimmel.

- "One of the sailors at a local club on Wabamun Lake contacted North Sails in the Spring of 1997 about installing a Harken 00 system on his MacGregor 26.  This time Dave Miller recommended the roller furling system made by Cruising Design Inc. (CDI).  Boat Journal apparently rated it #1 among flexible furlers for trailerable sailboats.  The unit was installed on the MacGregor 26 without any problem over the existing forestay.  The foil has a single track but the drum cannot be removed for racing, if that is important.  The components have a lifetime warranty to the original owner.  The cost in 1997 from North Sails in Vancouver was about $850.⁰⁰ Ca.  The Cruising Design system is somewhat less expensive than the Harken unit and according to Dave, more reliable."  Stan Franklin.

- "I love my FF2 and have had no problems with it.  However, it is not rated for my 150% jib and if I had to do it over again, I would buy the FF4, the next size up.  In addition, the FF4 drum is larger so it can handle larger line which is easier on the hands.  I did buy the FF2 model equipped with the synthetic ball bearings so it rotates easier under load.  As a result my FF2 is very smooth and operates well when the wind pipes up."  Alan Weld.

The Cruising Design Inc. web site shows a good explanation of the hardware for all four models.  Their specs will guide you to the model FF2 that fits the SJ23 with a 29' 3" forestay.  For assistance 1(844) 379-2407 or info@sailcdi.com. 

The drum can be slid up the foil to expose the turnbuckle for adjusting.  Once adjusted, the head stay tension is set by the backstay adjuster.  See Tech Tip F09.  

UPDATED  INSTALLATION - I installed a CDI FF2 on Wild Tangent during a weekend using Sta-lok fittings with the mast standing.  This created a couple challenges that were easily resolved after I figured out what to do.  Installing a CDI FF2 with the mast standing and the boat in the water requires a spinnaker and jib halyard as a temporary forestay to keep the mast standing.  Below is a high level summary that might help others.  Robert Hasegawa (2024-11-11).

•  Make sure your forestay is properly tensioned and mark the proper location on the screws with tape. There is no way to put a Loos gauge on the head stay after the foil is installed.
  - Measure the mast rake and the backstay tension with a Loose Gauge prior to this installation.  If the mast rake and the backstay tension are the same after the installation, assuming the new forestay is the same length, then all is OK.

• Assemble the FF2 head fitting as per CDI instructions.

• For Sta-lok fittings. Enlarge the center hole on the bow end of the foil to .5" diameter x 3” deep. The CDI foil is designed to slip over a swaged fitting, but Sta-lok fittings are much larger in diameter. Peck at the extrusion with your drill in a controlled way or it will “cork screw” into the material. This step is not required for a swaged fitting.

• Attach spinnaker halyard to the stem head fitting to function as a temporary forestay.

• Loop the jib halyard around the top of the foil and attach the jib shackle to the halyard making a “noose” of sorts.  This will be used to hoist the foil.  Do not wrap this around the halyard, only the foil.  That is part of the CDI system.

• TIE A MESSENGER LINE TO THE JIB SHACKLE.  This will be used to retrieve the shackle once installation is complete.

• Remove the forestay pin and remove the Sta-Lok fitting from the cable.

• Feed the cable through the center hole of the foil.

• Use the jib halyard to hoist the top side of the foil while carefully feeding the cable into the center hole. At some point, the end of the foil will be beyond reach.  Just pull the halyard carefully, wiggle it around if necessary, and it will feed all the way through.  I did this on the first try with no problem.

• When the end of the cable is through, cleat the jib halyard.  You should have a few inches of cable sticking out the top.

• Reinstall the Sta-Lok fittings using a new wedge and former.

• Continue the drum installation per the CDI instructions.

• Re tension the head stay using the tape.  Safety wire in place.

• Uncleat the jib halyard and use the messenger line to retrieve the shackle.

• Job done.

• Check the mast rake and backstay tension after a couple of weeks.  Don't be surprised if it requires adjusting to restore settings.    TOP  

HOOD SEAFLEX FURLER - Incorporating all the experience and quality of HOOD Yacht Systems, the SEA FLEX flexible furler is created with the needs of a pocket cruiser in mind.

The drum can be released from the furler housing and the side of the housing removed to expose the turnbuckle for adjusting.  Once the turnbuckle is adjusted to the correct mast rake the head stay tension is set by the back stay.  See Tech Tip F09.

"I acquired this system with the purchase of my boat.  After I replaced the missing components all is working well with the boat on the trailer.  The 150% genoa rolls up nicely.  Once the boat refurbish is complete I'll report my on the water experience here."  Randy Cook.      TOP  
 

SELDEN / FURLEX 50S FURLER - Perfect choice for a sailor wanting a compact, low height furling and reefing system.  This is the only manufacturer to supply a complete kit of the following: a new forestay wire e/w STA-LOK terminal, halyard lead, stanchion block, pre-feeder and furling control line with the furler.  Everything included.  Here's how to install it and measure it.

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PANACHE INSTALLATION (2018-04) - "I had no intention of installing a furling system but I'll admit that I was getting tired of the "panic" trips to the foredeck to douse a jib.  Then in Fall of 2017 I was offered a Schaefer Snapfurl CF-500 furler for a price I just couldn't turn down. 
FORESTAY - A new furler also meant I had to install a new forestay and of course a 'perfect time' to install a back stay adjuster.  See Tech Tip F09. 
FURLING CONTROL LINE - The design of the furling control line was reconfigured several times to accommodate my anchor roller which lead to installing the fairlead bracket (CF-500-22) on the drum, fairleads on the stanchions and roller blocks along the toe rail. 
CONVERT JIB - During installation I thought it expedient to convert my 110% jib to furling since I knew it would fit, so off it went to North Sails, Vancouver. 
JIB SLEEVE - Since I already owned a slightly used jib sleeve I chose not to add UV strips to the jib. 
JIB OOPSY - A problem with the top pennant of the 110% jib was solved with trial and error during the first summer. 
CONVERT GENOA - The next summer my 150% genoa was converted to furling.

It was fun but sometimes frustrating to work out the bugs.  All the hardware is now working just fine, thanks to advice from friends who own a furler.  I learned lots.  For more details read each section that follows."  Bob

SCHAEFER SNAPFURL CF-500 - An excellent USA built flexible furler with a flexible foil designed specifically for stepping the mast of a trailerable sailboat.  This is perfect if you frequently step the mast as it is easy to store and less prone to damage while doing this job.  It comes with a 5 year warranty to the original owner.  (Keep your receipt).  The vinyl foil extrusion halves are coiled and shipped in a (36x36x5)" box with the associated hardware tucked inside.  Keep that in mind for shipping.  The two foil halves, fore and aft, snap together over a 1/8" to 3/16" diameter forestay.  The swivel and drum are equipped with Torlon bearings.  The swivel slides to the top of the foil to hoist the jib and tension the luff.  The drum is equipped with a retaining clip and a locking strap to keep the turnbuckle toggle extended out the bottom for "pinning" the forestay to the deck.  This is a clever design that allows a person to push the torque tube down to guide the turnbuckle into place over the chain plate, saving time by keeping parts attached.  Once the forestay is on, the drum can be slid up the foil by loosening 4 captive 5/32" Allen screws on the sail feeder and the two screws on the bottom locking strap you see at right.  Sliding the drum up over the foil exposes the turnbuckle so the tension can be adjusted.  Once the turnbuckle is adjusted with the correct mast rake it is lock wired and the head stay tension is set by the back stay.  This is why I installed a back stay adjuster on Panache.  See Tech Tip F09.  To remove the drum and swivel for winter storage loosen the 4 Allen screws and slide both off the bottom of the foil.  For road travel and storage secure the foil with enough straps along the mast to prevent drooping and support the protruding end of the foil.  The alternative is to support the torque tube with a (2x4)" or ski pole.

• Why choose a furler?
• CF-500 Installation video.
• Watch this video about the Snapfurl hardware from Schaefer. 
• Assistance 1(508)995-9511 or sales@schaefermarine.com

• Locking strap and turnbuckle retaining clip - Schaefer equips this furler with a locking strap (holds torque tube up) and a turnbuckle retaining clip (holds torque tube down) installed below the drum (read the CF-500 manual).  With both installed the drum/torque tube can't slide on the forestay, making it possible to pin the forestay to the deck by pushing down on the drum.  In Panache's case the turnbuckle toggle didn't stick out far enough to easily pin the forestay, so I added a 3/4" spacer and a custom retaining clip.
• Schaefer Lead Arm - The CF-500 drum installs too low to the deck of an SJ23 to install the first control line block on a pulpit leg, there being no 90⁰ line up.  This is the reason I installed the Schaefer Lead Arm, option CF-500-22.  It works well.
• Sail Feeder - The square corners on the inside of the metal sail feeder make removing a jib very difficult when the bottom of the luff tape has frayed cloth that binds on the inside square corners of the sail feeder.  (Later I learned they should be bonded to each other).  One of the loose outside layers of cloth will inevitably pile up on one side of the top of the feeder, preventing the sail from sliding out.  This was the case with my modified jib.  In an emergency it is possible to remove the feeder and pull the foil up to remove the jib.  A better solution is to glue the 1/2" edge of layered cloth into a single rigid form.  The glue must not be longer than 1/2", as it must slide through the .062" gap of the feeder.  DO NOT GLUE THE BEAD as it must remain flexible to slide through the feeder.  In addition, I filed the inside corners of the feeder to a slight bevel and polished the bevels with 600 grit emery cloth.  Voila, the jib slips in and out much easier.
• Prefeeder - Its also a good idea to use a pre-feeder to guide the jib to the foil feeder, especially if you hoist the jib on your own.  It's really frustrating having to walk between the bow and the mast for each foot the jib is hoisted, not to mention damage that can be done to the luff tape by snagging it on the foil feeder.  The best prefeeder is one equipped with rollers at the business end.
• Transport & Storage - For trailering and winter storage Schaefer recommends the drum and swivel be slid off the foil and stored in the cabin to remove excess weight. 
  - On Panache the foil protruding beyond the mast is supported by an old ski pole jammed into the top hole in the mast base.  This works very well.
  - Alternatively you can support it with a (2X4)" as shown for a CF-700 furler ready for a trek down the lake.  In either case there is no strain on the drum or foil. 
  - One less hole for the birds to nest in!  

A NEW FORESTAY YOU SAY - When you read the installation manual of any of these flexible furlers you'll discover all of them recommend replacing the forestay if it is even slightly suspect OR more than 4 years old.  Selden goes so far as to supply a new forestay!  All of them recommend using an open turnbuckle that is locked with SS wire since a roller furler has been known to unscrew a barrel turnbuckle that was locked.  "Nasty that would be."  An open turnbuckle sheds water & debris where a barrel turnbuckle can trap both.  I have no access to a rigging shop to swage a new 1/8" forestay so I upgraded to 5/32" wire: 316 left hand lay SS, terminal a STA-LOK eye at the top and a STA-LOK 5/16" turnbuckle stud at the bottom.  5/32" wire is more robust than 1/8," has less stretch and a STA-LOK termination has the option of field repair. 

• Just in case you have the heebie jeebies about installing a mechanical termination, watch the applicable "how to" video:  STA-LOK or Hi-Mod (Hayn).  (Norseman went out of business in 2014). 

• "Corrosion resistance, fatigue resistance, proper scantlings, proper tune, proper use, and quality of metallurgy are all more likely to prevent rigging failure than ultimate strength will.  Rigging afloat is very unlikely to be stressed anywhere near the breaking strength of its mechanical fittings but Mother Nature is always acting to corrode, fatigue or otherwise break it."  Practical Sailor.

• Marine sealant displaces the air inside a compression termination, keeping the water out to prevent cracking in freezing weather.  It also prevents crevice corrosion in salty air.  I live in a freezing climate so filled Panache's terminals with Sikkens Sikaflex 291.  Other suitable sealants are: marine silicone sealant (no vinegar smell), 3M4000 UV or BoatLIFE polysulfide. 
  NOTE - STA-LOK leaves the decision to fill the connector to the installer as long as the sealant is not acidic.
   

MAIN STEPS to INSTALL a STA-LOK TERMINAL.
To replace the factory forestay and turnbuckle I installed the top Stay-Lok termination first and placed the eye on the measuring board, next to the old forestay.  (Measuring board shows shrouds being measured).  Then I tightened the forestays side by side to transfer the LOA to the new wire.  Stretching was done with the stud end of the bottom termination screwed into the turnbuckle barrel.  The barrel was screwed in 1/3, to allow for future adjustments.  I determined the cut length by measuring a zillion times!
Fig 1, CUT WIRE SQUARE - Tape the wire to keep the strands together while cutting.  It cuts absolutely square without burrs if just the weight of the hack saw cuts the strands using a (2x4)" for support.  The alternative is to use a Dremel tool with a cutting disk and light pressure.	Fig 2, BOTTOM TERMINATION - The socket was slid over the wire & the outside strands unravelled.  Slip the wedge over the core leaving 1/8" protruding.  Space outer strands evenly around the wedge & across the split.  Slide the socket against the strands to maintain their spacing.  I held the end fitting with the open end pointed up so the former stayed on the bottom.  Applied 1 drop of Loctite inside and 2 on the thread, then tightened against the socket till snug.
Fig 3, BOTTOM TERMINATION -  I removed the end fitting to confirm even spacing of strands as per this photo.  The center core MUST stick out a bit.  It fits in the hole through the former, provided the burrs were removed.  Wet Loctite is an excellent lubricant to use between the strands and the former.  Also on the thread to prevent galling.  Once cured it prevents the Stay-Lok terminal from coming lose.  The terminal can be opened for inspection years later provided you replace the wedge.  I haven't done this yet.	Fig 4, BOTTOM TERMINATION - The excess Sikaflex oozed out between the wire strands when I tightened the terminal.  The sealant guarantees a water tight seal to prevent corrosion in this deck level terminal.  The threaded stud end was screwed on the stationary socket to maintain the integrity of the wire strands against the former inside.  While I used a wee tad too much Sikaflex, it turned out good.  Its not often that the stud end is shown.  This screws into the top of a turnbuckle.  It sure simplifies the rigging assembly.
Fig 5, TOP TERMINATION - I determined the cut length of the new forestay by lining up the STAY-LOK pin hole to the factory masthead toggle hole.  The black pointer indicates where the wire ends inside the STAY-LOK termination.  The forestay length is crucial to maintain mast rake.  The San Juan mast head toggle was retained to pin the STA-LOK eye to.  It spreads the load evenly on the horizontal pin across the masthead.	Fig 6, TOP TERMINATION - Top STAY-LOK terminal installed on the new forestay.  The excess Sikaflex was wiped off leaving some embedded between the strands to shed water.  The black pointer indicates the alignment of the clevis pin hole to the factory forestay toggle hole. Back to Tech Tip F34a
With the new forestay fabricated the "cut length" of the Scheafer vinyl foil was measured for installation. Then the maximum luff length of the 110% jib was measured for conversion (first sail to be converted).  These two critical measurements were made with a 100' tape measure to ensure accuracy.  Now we're making progress.
TIME TO TEST - There comes a time in any project when you just have to put the pieces together to confirm that things fit before moving to the next critical step!  So on a warm Spring day Panache's mast was stepped using the factory backstay to maintain the original mast rake.  The new forestay was a perfect fit with the mast at the correct rake and 1" of thread left on the turnbuckle.  Its sweet when all the measurements are correct and things fit.  Next step is to install the furling system. While the mast was standing I marked the location of the new wire block for a future backstay adjuster. Every roller furling system should be tensioned by a backstay adjuster.  See Tech Tip F09.
INSPECTION (2023) - Inspecting the forestay turnbuckle should be done on the hard prior to launch where it's somewhat easier to find a dropped part.  Just say'n.  If you inspect it on the water it means more work, since sliding the drum/torque tube up to expose the turnbuckle demands that you remove the jib and not drop anything.  "By the way, inspecting the turnbuckle during the winter with snow on the ground is about as intelligent as inspecting it on the water!  Naturally I inspected Panache's turnbuckle on the water because I forgot.  But at least I did this on a calm day before the jib was hoisted with both halyards attached to the pulpit to support the mast.  Thankfully the temporary lock wires were still in place and the grease on the thread was still good after 5 years of service.  No problems after all.  Phew.  However, in Spring 2024 I replaced the temporary wires with permanent SS wires.  Nothing wrong with the temporary wires but I like SS better."   TIP:  One way to monitor the length of the forestay, terminals and turnbuckle is to measure the mast rake.  The rake is the sum of all adjustments.  It's peace of mind to see no change.  But you should still visually inspect the terminals and turnbuckle on a regular basis.  Panache's rake is ~6" aft at the foot.

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ASSEMBLE FURLER - "Prior to installing a CF-500 furler on Panache in Spring 2018, the system was assembled and tested on a new 5/32" forestay stretched between two trees.  Its a lot easier working horizontal on the ground than vertical on the boat!  Besides, the lake was still frozen.  It took two of us to snap the foil halves together, one to guide the curled extrusions and the other to snap them together.  As curled as the extrusions were out of the shipping box, its amazing they snapped together to form a fairly straight foil that rotated easily on the forestay.  To "help it" acquire a new memory of being straight I left the assembled foil to bake in the sun for several days, stretched between those two trees.  The 2' end section that didn't want to straighten was "persuaded" to do so with a heat gun.  The top of the foil terminates about 2" from the end of the new forestay.  The halyard restrainer was installed on the front of the mast, level with the top of the foil.
NOTE - The halyard restrainer MUST be attached very securely to the mast if you use the halyard to step the mast.  Its worthwhile to check these fasteners every once in a while!

PIN THE FORESTAY UNDER THE LOW FURLING DRUM - After a few frustrating times pinning Panache's forestay while stepping the mast I needed a solution for the drum that is installed low to the deck.  The Schaefer manual shows a sideways pin installation that would work well for a low drum installation but offers no suggestion for a fore aft pin configuration as on an SJ23.  While some sailors like a low drum for a deck sweeper jib, this sailor prefers ease of access to the stem plate to confirm a secure pin. 

1 PIN - The first problem is that the turnbuckle toggle didn't stick out far enough to easily insert the pin.  The toggle must stick out reasonably well to work quickly on the ramp.  It's why I fabricated the 3/4" spacer shown at right to push the drum up to expose more of the toggle.  I also fabricated a new turnbuckle retaining clip (see red arrow above) that has a longer reach up to the mounting screws.  This clip holds the drum down so the jib can be tensioned without pulling the foil up.  Sounds confusing doesn't it? 

2 RING - The second problem is that it is really difficult to twist the ring through the aft pointed pin since it is difficult to see under the low drum with my hands in the way.  "Last I checked, these parts roll real easy on the parking lot, never to be seen again!"  It doesn't help that the SJ23 tack horns block access!  I'm hesitant to remove the horns because I use them to attach the jib sleeve zipper pull line to.

• NOTE - Regardless of which direction the pin was installed, it always slid till the ring was against the turnbuckle toggle.  There should be no strain on the ring as this increases the risk of loosing the pin and dropping the mast.  Nasty that is.  One should be forgiven to assume all is safe by installing the pin pointed downhill but I was really surprised one day to discover it slid uphill in only 15 minutes while rocking at the dock.  This was immediately after a launch.  See Tech Tip F34.  The obvious solution is not so obvious after all. 

The following season I replaced the pin with a standard (1.5 x 5/16)" bolt pointed downhill.  The extra nut and stack of washers are there to fill the space along the clear shank.  They are glued together with Marine Goop so I don't mess with a bunch of loose washers at launch time.  The threaded end of the bolt was bevelled so it slips easily through the stem & toggle holes without damaging the thread.  A hole was drilled across the end of the bolt to accept the locking ring.  It is now easier to slip the ring through the hole.

CONCLUSION - Inserting the spacer and fabricating a new turnbuckle retaining clip saved me the effort of having to shorten the forestay foil and possibly the genoa (Argh, neither of these are gonna happen any time soon).  Had I known about this problem before I fabricated the new forestay and cut the foil to fit, I would have included an extension.  The trials and tribulations of installing new hardware on my own with a boat on the hard 15 KMs away from home." 

Another thought was to fabricate a 2" extension on top of the stem plate using two 1/8" thick flat bars (shown at left) or a 2" long eye to jaw toggle (shroud extender).  The top of either extension could fit inside the 3/8" jaw of the turnbuckle toggle.  The bonus of an eye to jaw toggle is that the top pin could go athwart ship, as shown in the manual, making the job of pinning the forestay easier.  The bottom bolt would stay permanent and the top would be removable.  This is still a viable solution for others so I'll leave it here as food for thought.    TOP  
 

FURLING CONTROL LINE - All furling systems use similar hardware for the furling control line.  The idea is to have as little friction in the system as possible. 

• Furling Drum - At the bow I installed the furling control line to port so it is away from the anchor which is to starboard.  "Make life easy for yourself, not more difficult.  I'm right handed and stand to port when I handle the anchor line.  It made sense to me."  The fairlead bracket (CF-55-22) is on the drum to guide the line on it for an even wrap.  The first ball bearing swivel block is installed just forward of the aft pulpit leg.  Thereafter a SS lined fairlead is on each stanchion post with a small ball bearing block clipped to the toe rail between the stanchions to keep the deck clear.  And finally a swivel ball bearing ratchet block is on the pushpit to direct the line up to the cleat. 
  
  Notice that all blocks are ball bearing and swivel to minimize friction.  I can't emphasize this enough.   How to operate a furling jib. 
  
  Furling Control Line - The system requires 40' of 1/4" soft line which is long enough for the 150% genoa or the 110% working jib.  However, the 1/4" line spooled up against the inside of the four drum stakes, causing friction.  So it was replaced with 7/32" line which works fine.  It's important to maintain a minimum of three warps around the drum with the sail out. 

• Forward Block - The location of the forward block is critical so the furling control line meets the middle of the drum at 90⁰ to spool evenly.  Get this wrong and you'll be walking to the bow to undo a nasty snarl.  Take a knife or marlin spike with you and quit grumbling!   This is a Ronstan full articulating, ball bearing block installed on the toe rail, just forward of the aft leg of the pulpit.  It is a perfect spot for this. 
   

• Stanchion Fairleads - To retain as much clear walking space on the side deck, I installed a stanchion bulls eye fairlead (Nautos 605740) on the outside.  Use metal lined fairleads as they have less friction and stand up to wear better than vinyl ones.  For the same reason use ball bearing turning blocks where needed.

• Mid Deck - Two mid deck Harken ball bearing blocks were added to keep the side deck clear and the spring line cleat free.  The last thing I need is a tripping hazard when I'm in a hurry to scoot around the shrouds.

Cockpit - At mid cockpit I installed a tiny Harken 16MM ball bearing block on the toe rail to keep the line low and prevent a tripping hazard.  To maintain a tight roll of the jib I installed a Ronstan RF42100 automatic ratchet block on the bottom of the pushpit leg.  A ratchet block works in much the same fashion as holding a line wrapped around a winch, it maintains tension.  The ratchet is automatically enabled in proportion to line load and the force required to enable the ratchet is adjustable at the swivel.  It took very little time to adjust to this feature and produces a neater wrap than a free spinning block.
This Ronstan block swivels so it always creates a fair lead to where I stand.  The spring under it quiets the block.  The cleat installed above it works well with the ratchet block to secure and store the line. 
If you have the factory corner stanchion you could install a turning block there with a cleat slightly forward to secure your furling control line to.  You'll have to get creative here.     TOP  
 

HOW to REPLACE a DAMAGED FORESTAY (REPAIR 101) - Just suppose your forestay develops a problem and the foil can't be removed.  Now what do you do?  Its always good to have a plan for this prior to installing a furling system.

• When you need to replace the forestay inside the foil of your furling system, here's a video to replace the forestay without damaging the foil.  These guys do a better job of showing it than I can describe it.

• The overall length of the new forestay MUST be exactly the same length as the previous to retain the mast rake.  Of course if the rake is wrong, now is your chance to correct it.

NOTE - I have done this job on another sailboat and it was extremely difficult to install the bottom STA-LOK termination due to the short protruding wire beyond the bottom foil.  My hands cramped up trying to hold the strands in place while screwing on the threaded stud.  Seriously, consider removing at least the drum and torque tube plus maybe a bottom section of foil prior to attempting this job.  It may seem like overkill but it is the best way to guarantee a correct installation.     TOP  
 

CONVERT the FACTORY JIB to FURLING - See Tech Tip F10b.     TOP  
 

Screw-on Rigging Terminals
Mechanical Terminal Pull Test
Hidden Causes of Rig Failure
Seal a Mechanical Rigging Terminator
 

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