FABRICATE LOWER 5/32" SHROUDS, (Fall 2020).

As usual with other jobs on Panache there were a few surprises with this one too.  If you ever thought you could set the mast athwartship to the hull by measuring the height of the shroud turnbuckles, think again (Fig 2).  The length of Panache's lower factory shrouds differed by 1/2".  Fortunately this was within range of the turnbuckles to adjust and thankfully I never used this technique.
 

Fig 1, LINE UP THE TOPS - The length of the new shrouds had to be measured accurately and its best to use a board like this.  It never moved with a section of railroad track weighing it down.  The old swaged shrouds are on the inside and the new shrouds with Sta-Lok forks were set on the outside. 

Fig 2, MEASURE THE LENGTHS - The old factory shrouds were tensioned to accurately measure their lengths.  Always measure with a 50' tape.  "And you thought the shrouds would be equal length?   Guess again, 1/2" difference!" 

Fig 3, CUT THE WIRE TO LENGTH - The Sharpie points to how far the new 5/32" wire goes inside the Sta-Lok terminal and is lined up with the dot that marks where the 5/32" wire is to be cut.  This measurement was determined with all four wires tensioned to laser straight and turnbuckles screwed in 1/3. 
NOTE - The turnbuckle toggle pins were lined up for equal length, keeping in mind there has to be sufficient thread to release the turnbuckles 3/8" to step the mast with sufficient thread to tension the rig.

Fig 4, ASSEMBLE LOWER SHROUDS - The lower shrouds were fabricated in Fall 2020 and are ready to install on the mast.  The turnbuckles aren't on yet because they would bend the wire while stored this tight in the box over winter. 

The 5/16" toggle pins were "thickened" to 3/8" with a snug terminal SS tube slipped over each (1/16" thick wall).  This will minimize point loading of the pins in the 3/8" chain plate holes.  A bit of a pain to do but given the late discovery, what the hell. 
"I should have ordered the turnbuckles with 3/8" pins.  A slight oversight when ordering them."

NOTE - "Out of curiosity I once dismantled a Sta-Lok terminal that was compressed against a crooked former.  It took 4 hours of delicate picking to remove the wedge, former and strands from inside, they were compressed that tight.  Its safe to say the terminal was pretty well a solid mass of metal.  Despite that, I still wouldn't trust it to support a load bearing structure, let alone a mast.  But, the terminal was reused with new wedge and former in another installation with no problem.  Damn good hardware."
 

Panache's factory upper shrouds differed in length by 1/8" which is no big deal.  However, they were shorter than spec by 1" which is a big deal.  See Tech Tip H02.  After having removed all the turnbuckles I forgot to mark which were for the upper & lower shrouds.  Grrr.  This presented a problem.  Given this unknown I decided to finalize the length of the new shrouds in the Spring of 2021, with the mast standing as it is the safest way to determine an accurate fit and prevent an expensive time consuming screw up.  I had enough wire left for 2 upper shrouds and maybe a backstay.  So rather than waste wire I terminated each end with a fork and hoped that the piece to be removed from the middle would suffice for a backstay.  It did.
 

Fig 5, LINE UP THE TOPS - The old swaged shrouds are set on the inside and the new shrouds with Sta-Lok forks are set on the outside using the board in Fig 1 above to secure the tops.  This board eliminates any guesswork when measuring length at the bottom of the shrouds as shown here.  The rod guarantees equal tension & position of all 4 pins.

Fig 6, MEASURE THE LENGTHS - The Sharpie points to where the wire is to be cut (dot on tape).  The final cut length will be confirmed with the shrouds hanging from the mast. 

TOP
 

MODIFY SPREADER ENDS, (Spring 2021).

Fig 7, NICOPRESS STOP SLEEVES - The early version spreaders are set at right angles to the mast (horizontal) that can result in a slight downward force at the tip once the rigging is stressed.  This is not a big deal for this robust spreader but to offset the downward force a Nicopress stop sleeve of soft copper is crimped to the shroud where it rests snug under the spreader to support it.  The stop sleeve can also offset the downward pull of a lazy jack or a flag halyard.  You have to do some vector addition to understand this.  If you are going to stand on the spreaders keep your feet right next to the mast, otherwise you will be in for a nasty surprise as you smack your butt on the deck! 
 

The factory configuration shown at left created the bend below.

 

The bottom of the spreader tip notched with a file to prevent the wedges from sliding sideways.  This is a machine fit to the wedge.

At right are the wedges dry fitted prior to grinding.  Once the epoxy cured the excess metal was ground flat to match the contour of the spreader tube.  It was shaped with a hand file and a Dremel.
 

Dry fit of final assembly below, crimped at right and sealed below.

 TOP
 

INSTALL THE 5/32" SHROUDS, (Spring 2021).

Fig 8, ATTACH ALL SHROUDS TO MAST

• With the mast down I drilled out the mast tang holes from 1/4" to 5/32" to fit the Sta-Lok fork pins. 
  - Best to step drill the tangs using a tungsten drill bit with a SS sheet behind it to protect the mast and a vice grip to steady both. 

• Then I attached each shroud to its mast tang with the pin pointed out so it can't wear on the mast. 
  - It took a bit of finagling to fit a pin through the tang hole but it popped through when I nudged the tang out.  The lower shroud turnbuckles were attached to the inner holes on the chain plate and the upper shrouds were left loose.

• I fit the spreaders to the mast and slipped the upper shrouds through the spreaders ends. 
  
  Enlarging a tang hole to 5/32" for a 5/32" pin using a sheet of SS to protect the mast.

• Each lower shroud was secured to its chain plate using a spacer tube over the pin to fit the larger hole in the chain plate.  The mast was stepped with the upper shrouds hanging loose from the spreaders. 
  - The temporary shrouds used for stepping mast kept it centered and the lower shrouds provided the lateral support once standing. 

• Adjusted the lower shroud turnbuckles to set the mast perpendicular (left-right) to the hull. 
  - Confirmed by using the main halyard touched to each toe rail. 

• Tightened the lower turnbuckles really tight to remove construction stretch.
  
  There is enough space on a tang to fit a Sta-Lok fork without touching mast.  This photo is prior to locking the cotter pin.
   

• With each upper turnbuckle screwed in 1/3 I confirmed the shrouds were previously marked correct for cutting. (see yellow tape in Fig 2).
  Confirm measurements several times before cutting.  I have never known a hack saw to add wire!

• The wire was taped to keep the strands bundled together for cutting.  I slipped a SS washer and a copper sleeve over each upper shroud.  Later I slipped a high density vinyl tube over the wire to minimize point loading and to insulate the shrouds from the aluminum spreaders.
  - The remaining wire I had left is just long enough for a future backstay.  For now I will use the 1/8" factory backstay that was modified in Tech Tip F09 for the backstay tensioner.

• Port turnbuckles secured.  Blue Wave smart pins never loosen.

• Installed a Sta-Lok stud to the bottom of each upper shroud.  Then screwed a turnbuckle to each and attached it to its respective chain plate spacer tube over the pin.  Tensioned the rigging really tight.

• Marked each shroud where the spreader is to rest on its sleeve; ~12' 3.75" from the top.
  - I stood on a ladder resting against the back of the mast to apply tape to each shroud, just under the spreader. 

• Lowered mast, crimped stopper sleeves, slipped in vinyl sleeves, attached spreader caps.  Did a thorough inspection of all rigging parts to confirm Panache is ready for another rounding of the "Horn". 

Starboard turnbuckles ready for Blue Wave smart pins. 

Fig 12, JOB DONE.  (A dram of Scotch never tasted this good!)

• In the final assessment, the upper and lower shrouds were cut to factory length and fit like a glove with turnbuckles screwed in 1/3.  In the photo below I've tightened the turnbuckles really hard to remove as much construction stretch as possible during the 3 weeks the mast stood till launch day.  The next day a cold front blew through that shook the rigging quite a bit and covered the deck with snow.  That shaking helped to remove a lot of construction stretch and couldn't have happened at a more opportune time.  Nothing like an initiation from Mother Nature to test new hardware.  It will take a few days (~15 hrs) of sailing to remove the last of the stretch though.
      PS: Since I now use the trailer winch to step the mast I no longer extend the mast support post as shown here.

• At this point in time all the rigging, except the backstay, is secured with a Sta-Lok terminal on 5/32" SS wire, I crimped the stopper sleeves under the spreaders, installed the spreader ends, locked the cotter pins at each mast tang, and greased the turnbuckles.  Only the top of the backstay has a swaged terminal (factory original) and the open end of that terminal points down so I'm not concerned about it for now.  I have enough 5/32" wire left to replace it.  Its a thing of beauty when a project comes together after so long.  Time to go sailing.

PARTS LIST for 5/32" SHROUDS.

The box of goodies I received from RIGGING ONLY.
These people really know their stuff and give excellent service.
 

 4 ea - Sta-Lok Fork, 5/32" wire X1/4" pin, (top terminal).

TOTAL

SET THE RIGGING TENSION ON THE WATER, (Summer 2021).
 

During my first sail I cruised around at near hull speed for the afternoon, heeled at 20⁰ for as much as possible.  I was impressed with the lack of stretch the new 5/32" wire has.  Maybe its "waxed car" syndrome but Panache sure felt solid.  By the end of the afternoon the leeward shrouds showed a bit of slack that was taken up with one turn of the turnbuckles.  By mid season I've tightened the rigging twice, 1/2 turn each time.  In both cases the leeward shrouds were just loose at 20⁰ heel.  I'll continue to monitor the rigging but I doubt there will be anymore adjustments.

In early August I confirmed the rig tension with a Loos gauge again and I was pleasantly surprised with how equal my field adjustments were compared to measured tension.  At this time I released one lower shroud 1/2 turn to remove a bow in the mast which equalized all the measured shroud tensions.  As it turns out the gauge showed wire strain at ~11% loading on all shrouds (noted by the pointer at 31) which demonstrates that adjusting the rig tension as per Clark's instructions works.  The rigging has stopped stretching as the tension has held steady for the remainder of the summer.  At the end of the season Panache experienced a near knockdown with no change in rigging tension.  Good stuff.

FABRICATE 5/32" BACKSTAY, (Fall 2023).

The top wire of the new 5/32" backstay now has a Sta-Lok eye terminal at both ends.

NOTE - This is one of those times when I received misleading information about the SJ23.  Panache was still floating when I was told the masthead casting changed over the years and an early version may not accept an eye terminal.  Obviously this is not the case as can be seen in Fig 2 below, but it is best to verify this against your own boat. 
 

Fig 13, MASTHEAD - The new backstay will fit in the aft groove with the 5/16" pin securing both the Stay-Lok eye terminal and the boom topping lift bale.  The factory backstay was removed in this photo to fabricate a new one to the same length.

Fig 14, MASTHEAD - The masthead showing the Dyneema boom topping lift and backstay eye terminal in place on the single pin.  The lighter topping lift should interfere less with the telltales and minimize chafe on the mainsail.

Fig 15, STAY-LOK TERMINALS - The 24' coil of 5/32" new backstay wire with Stay-Lok terminals attached.

Fig 16, WIRE BLOCK - The bottom Stay-Lok eye terminal on the backstay pins directly to the wire block, making a neat connection. 

NOTE - I don't have a use for the shackle at the top of this block but it behoves me to remove it.  The second I do, I guarantee you I will need it for something.  Murphy strikes again.  Aaarch.

Fig 17, BOOM TOPPING LIFT - The factory 3/32" SS boom topping lift usually droops with a tendency to snag a leech tell tale, threatening to tear it off.  So I made one from Dyneema.

• 1/8" Dyneema line is light so it flies off the mainsail to not interfere with the tell tales. 

• It is slippery so a tell-tale releases easily. 

• It is soft so it shouldn't chafe the mainsail leech. 

• The top end was spliced around a SS thimble.

• The bottom end was spliced in a loop.

• The whole assembly is strong enough to support the mast should the backstay break or to lift a person out of the water.  I hope I never have to do either of these.

Fig 18, BOOM TOPPING LIFT - The 1/8" Dyneema line flying while sailing upwind.  It flies like this most of the time.  Exactly what I wanted.

FABRICATE 1/8" SPLIT WIRE for BACKSTAY, (Fall 2023).

The bottom split wire of the backstay adjuster was fabricated with new 1/8" Imperial gauge wire and Nicopress sleeves.  A single oval, zinc plated, copper Nicopress compression sleeve can support 90% of the breaking strength of the 1/8" 7x19 wire, if it is swaged correctly.  To exceed 100% strength the split wire was fabricated using dual sleeves, spaced ~1/8" apart, with each sleeve swaged 2 times.  The protruding wire was at least 2 cable diameters long, prior to swaging.  View "How to Select and Crimp a Swage Sleeve" for more details.  It is impossible to fabricate a new backstay to the same length as the previous so for this reason the safety wire portion was cut to length after the mast was standing, in Spring 2024.
 

Fig 19, NICOPRESS SLEEVES - New sleeves swaged ~1/8" apart.  Each sleeve should be swaged 3 times but due to the wider width of the jaws they are swaged twice.  There is a SS thimble in each eye.  It rests around a matching size compression tube to eliminate point loading on the bolt.

All the prefabrication of the backstay components is complete.  Waiting for warm weather to install it.

Figs 20-22, FINAL ASSEMBLY - These last three photos reflect the assembly of the adjuster line with the mast stepped in Spring 2024 to confirm an exact fit.

The exposed wire ends were taped over to protect my skin from punctures.  Wow are those tiny strands ever sharp.  What a nasty way to get an infection.

It was a bit hairy to step the mast on my own this time since I didn't have a backstay to stop it from going forward, but I did set the line fairly close to length before hoisting.  Fortunately there was a bit of a head wind to push the mast aft once it stood up.  This stability gave me enough time to run to the stern to snub the backstay tensioner line against the forestay.  This sounds easy but when you are on your own you can't make a mistake and you have to hustle.  It all turned out good.  Phew.

Out on the water under full rig tension there was a tiny bit of thread exposed on the turnbuckle.  Now its a waiting game to determine if the split wire stretches.  It was good at the beginning of the season but half way through I shortened the wire 1.5" to create adjusting room on the turnbuckle.  I need this to tension the forestay correctly and to step the mast.  Job done.

Fig 20, Top tightened slightly during the dry fit.

Fig 21, Bottom during the dry fit.  1/4" pin in a 1/4" hole.

Fig 22, Bottom during the dry fit.

Fig 23, Overall Design from Tech Tip F09.

This is duck, loon, grebe, goose, pelican and osprey country. 
It is absolutely amazing to see pelicans fly in formation into this bay.

Fig 24, Overall photo of back stay adjuster.

PARTS LIST for 5/32" BACKSTAY - RIGGING ONLY.

TOTAL