REPLACE PANACHE'S 1977
FACTORY SHROUDS.
During the summer of 2020 I
discovered a broken strand on a lower shroud.
Given the age of the factory original 1/8" rigging, (43 years) it was prudent to
replace all the shrouds. To be consistent with the forestay I chose
5/32" wire. The extra bit of weight
for the larger 5/32" wire is insignificant as the four 1/8" factory shrouds weigh 3.4 pounds
and the 5/32" shrouds weigh ~4.5 pounds, (less turnbuckles). Wow that's a mere 1.1 lbs more. For reference, the 100' of 5/32" wire I bought weighs 5.7 pounds. The 5/32" wire is quite a bit stiffer than the 1/8" wire. Since the thread of the factory original 1/4" turnbuckles was too sloppy for my liking,
I installed 5/16" open body turnbuckles equipped with the stronger drop forged T-bolts. Then I used Velcro lock pins to prevent movement in each turnbuckle. It is cheaper and easier to replace all four shrouds at once than to do the job piece meal over several years. Its also smarter to
replace the standing rigging now than to wait till the
mast drops!
In future I may lighten the running rigging with Dyneema halyards but that is for another Tech Tip. I seriously considered Dyneema standing rigging but rejected the frapping knot as being too slow and labour intensive on the launching ramp, especially during my cold October haul outs. Replacing the knot with a SS turnbuckle was not recommended despite the fact that some people have installed them. I'm glad that somebody did this conversion on an SJ23 though. See Greg's installation in Tech Tip F34b.
MECHANICAL
TERMINATIONS - I could have replaced the worn out 1/8" rigging with new
swaged wires from
San Juan Sailboats
for a simple bolt on solution. Instead I choose to install new
wire with mechanical terminations from Rigging
Only. See list of parts below.
Mechanical terminations are basically corrosion resistant if they are
filled with the correct sealant to keep water out. The terminations have matching scantlings to
prevent point loading, their quality of machining prevents failure
(fatigue resistant), their strength is > to the wire they terminate
and they can be reused if installed correctly.
Here are a few pointers to note:
UNBALANCED WIRE - If the core of the wire withdraws a bit after it is cut, it indicates the wire was not balanced when made. In use it tends to put more load on the core, lowering the breaking strength. It also makes it difficult to assemble the terminal.
- Exchange the wire for new.
UNEVEN ENDS - Uneven length of outer strands makes it hard to form them evenly over the wedge and they are likely to snag. The outside strands MUST be the same length to contact the former at the same time.
- Use a hacksaw instead of shears to cut the wire and file the burrs off the corners to make them smooth for forming.
TWISTED COVER STRANDS - The outer strands must form over the wedge in an even pattern for uniform load distribution. Twisted strands are impossible to form over the wedge.
- Ensure the strands are straight and evenly spaced prior to forming.
- Never let a strand slip into the slot of a wedge as this prevents the wedge from compressing on the core so it can't take a load.
CORE SHOW - Too much or too little core showing past the wedge can compromise the terminal efficiency. - Position the wedge on the core exactly where the manufacturer states so the strands are formed over the wedge correctly to distribute the load equally among all strands.
WRONG WEDGE - Ensure you have the correct matching size wedge designed for the terminal and the wire. - The wrong size wedge cannot grip wire and can be pulled out of the terminal.
Use Loctite on the thread as a lubricant to prevent galling during assembly. Its amazingly easy to literally weld the terminal pieces together by dry tightening. After tightening, the Loctite becomes an adhesive that prevents loosening.
GALLED THREAD - If the thread rumbles (squeaking is OK) it can lead to galling. Keep it clean. - Exchange the terminal for one with smooth thread.
SEALANT - Sta-Lok & Norseman recommend polysulfide or polyurethane sealant that is free of acetylsalicylic acid (vinegar smell) be used to completely fill the inside to prevent corrosion. It must ooze out of the connector on tightening it.
OVER TIGHTENING - When tightening, run things firmly home. Once you feel solid resistance there is no point is adding more than 1/4 turn.
The following links demonstrate the
assembly of a termination better than my text
can;
HINT - Use
your fatigued shroud with turnbuckle as a template for making a new
shroud. Also see
Tech Tip
H02 for specs.
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FABRICATE LOWER 5/32" SHROUDS, (Fall 2020).
As usual
with other jobs on Panache there were a few surprises with this
one too. If you ever
thought you could set the mast athwartship to the hull by measuring the
height of the
shroud turnbuckles, think again (Fig 2).
The length of
Panache's lower factory shrouds differed by 1/2". Fortunately this
was
within range of the
turnbuckles
to adjust and thankfully I never used this technique.
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Fig 1, SECURE THE TOP ENDS - The length of
the new shrouds had to
be measured accurately and its best to use a board like this. It never moved with a section of
railroad track weighing it down. The old swaged shrouds were set on the inside and the new shrouds with Sta-Lok forks were set on the outside.
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Fig 2, MEASURE THE LENGTHS - The old
factory shrouds
were tensioned to accurately measure their lengths. Always measure with a 50' tape. "And you thought the shrouds would be equal length?
Guess again, 1/2"
difference!"
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Fig 3, CUT THE WIRE TO LENGTH - The Sharpie points to how far the new 5/32" wire goes inside the Sta-Lok termination and is lined up with the dot that marks where the 5/32" wire is to be cut. This measurement was determined with all four wires tensioned to laser straight and
turnbuckles screwed in 1/3.
NOTE - The turnbuckle toggle pins
are lined
up for equal length, keeping in mind there has to be
sufficient thread to release the turnbuckles 3/8" to step the
mast with sufficient thread to tension the
rig.
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Fig
4, ASSEMBLE LOWER SHROUDS - The lower shrouds were fabricated
in Fall 2020 and are ready to
install on
the mast. The turnbuckles aren't on yet because they would bend
the wire while stored in the box over winter. The 5/16" toggle pins
were "thickened" to 3/8" with a snug fitting SS
tube
slipped over
them (1/16" thick wall). This will minimize point loading of the pins in the
3/8" chain plate holes. A bit of a pain to do but given
the late discovery, what the hell.
"I should have
ordered the turnbuckles with 3/8" pins. A slight oversight when
ordering them."
NOTE - "Out of curiosity
I once dismantled a Sta-Lok
termination that was compressed against a crooked former. It
took 4 hours of delicate picking to remove the wedge, former and strands from inside, they were compressed
that tight. Its safe to say the termination was pretty well a solid mass of metal.
Despite that, I still wouldn't trust it to support a load bearing
structure, let alone a mast. But, the termination was reused in another
installation with no problem. I used a new wedge and former by the way! Damn good hardware."
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FABRICATE UPPER 5/32" SHROUDS, (Fall 2020).
Panache's
factory upper
shrouds differed in length by 1/8" which is no big deal.
However, they were shorter than spec by 1" which is a big deal. See
Tech
Tip H02.
After having removed all the turnbuckles I forgot to mark which were for the
upper & lower shrouds. Grrr. This presented a
problem. Given this unknown I decided to finalize the length of the
new shrouds in the Spring of 2021, with the mast standing as it is the safest way to determine an accurate fit and prevent an expensive
time, consuming screw up.
I
had a long length of wire for 2 upper shrouds and maybe
a backstay. So rather than waste wire I terminated each end
with a fork and hoped that the piece to be removed from the middle would suffice
for a backstay.
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Fig 1, SECURE THE TOP ENDS - The old swaged shrouds are
set on
the inside and the new shrouds with Sta-Lok forks are set on the outside
using the board in Fig 1 above to secure the top ends. This
board eliminates any
guesswork when measuring length at the bottom of the shrouds as shown here. The rod guarantees equal tension & position of the pins.
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Fig 2, MEASURE THE LENGTHS - The Sharpie
points to where the wire is to be cut (dot on tape). The final cut length
will be confirmed with the shrouds
hanging from the mast.
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MODIFY SPREADER ENDS, (Spring 2021). NICOPRESS
SLEEVES, (Spring 2021) - The early version spreaders are set at right angles to the mast (horizontal) that can result in a slight downward force at
the tip once the rigging is stressed. This is not a big deal for this robust
spreader but to offset the downward force a Nicopress sleeve of soft
copper is crimped to the shroud where it rests snug under the
spreader to support it. On the other hand, the sleeve can offset the downward pull of
a lazy jack
or a flag
halyard. You have to do some vector addition to understand this.
If you are going to stand on the spreaders place your feet next to the mast,
otherwise you will be in for a nasty surprise as you smack your butt on
the deck!
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The factory configuration shown at left created the bend below.
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When I removed the vinyl spreader caps I discovered the
wire was deformed with an odd permanent bend. This was due to the
copper stopper sleeve being pushed at an angle, bending the wire with
it. I didn't want this affecting the new wire so to keep it straight
I
flattened the bottom of the spreader tip with a couple of aluminum
wedges epoxied to the tip. Keep reading.
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The bottom of the spreader tip notched with a file to prevent the
wedges from sliding sideways. This is a machine fit to
the wedge.
At right are the wedges dry fitted prior to grinding. Once the epoxy
cured the excess metal was ground flat to match the contour of the
spreader tube. It was easy to shape them with a hand
file and a Dremel. |
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The SS washer spreads the load
uniformly between the sleeve and the wedges. A high density
vinyl tube over the wire insulates it electrically from the spreader. For an exact fit
on Panache the
position of the sleeve was marked with the mast standing and
crimped when the mast was down. The whole
assembly fits very nicely inside the
vinyl spreader cap. The screw through the end fitting retains the wire on the spreader.
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Dry fit of final assembly below, crimped at right and sealed below.
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HINT - "You could use your old shroud as a guide to position and crimp the Nicopress stop sleeve ~12' 3 5/8" from the top. It requires precise placement to support spreader & crimp the sleeve. I chose to tension the rigging for a week before I compressed the sleeves. Each spreader was nudged up just a bit to compress the sleeve, leaving them pointing upwards ever so slightly.
- This copper sleeve must be slipped over the shroud before the bottom termination is fitted. While a round Nicopress sleeve is inexpensive, you can't afford to experiment because you have to replace an end fitting to slip a new sleeve on.
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INSTALL 5/32" SHROUDS (Spring 2021) |
Prior to stepping the mast I modified the spreader ends with a softer turn to ease the strain on the wire. See Modified Spreader Ends above.
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Fig 3, ATTACH ALL SHROUDS TO MAST
-
With the mast down I drilled out the mast tang
holes from 1/4" to 5/32" to fit the Sta-Lok fork pins.
- Best to step drill the tangs using a tungsten
drill bit with a SS sheet behind it to protect the mast and a
vice grip to steady both.
-
Then I attached each shroud to its mast tang with
the pin pointed out so it can't wear on the mast.
- It took a bit of finagling to fit a pin through
the tang hole but
it popped through when I nudged the tang out. The
lower shroud turnbuckles were attached to the inner holes on the chain
plate and the upper shrouds were left loose.
-
I fit the spreaders to the mast and slipped the upper shrouds through the spreaders ends.
Enlarging a tang hole to 5/32" with a sheet of SS to protect mast.
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Fig 4, STEP THE MAST
-
We stepped the mast with the lower shrouds
secured to the chain plates and the upper shrouds hanging loose
from the spreaders.
- The temporary shrouds, used for stepping mast, kept it
centered and the lower shrouds provided the lateral support.
-
Adjusted the lower shroud turnbuckles to set
the mast perpendicular (left-right) to the hull.
- Confirmed by using the main halyard touched to each toe rail.
-
Tightened the lower turnbuckles really tight to
remove construction stretch.
There is enough space to fit
a Sta-Lok fork on a tang without touching mast. This photo is prior to locking the cotter pin.
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Fig 5, CUT UPPER SHROUDS TO LENGTH
-
With each upper turnbuckle screwed in 1/3 I
confirmed the shrouds were marked correctly
for
cutting after all.
(see yellow tape in Fig 2).
Confirm measurements several times before cutting. I have never known a hack saw to add wire!
-
The wire was taped to keep the strands bundled together for cutting. I slipped a
SS washer and a
copper sleeve
over each upper shroud. Later I slipped a high density
vinyl tube over the wire to minimize point loading and to insulate
the shrouds from the aluminum spreaders.
- The remaining wire I had left is
just long enough for a future backstay. For now I will use the 1/8"
factory backstay that was modified in Tech Tip F09 for the backstay tensioner.
Port turnbuckles secured with Blue Wave smart pins. These work real well.
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Fig 6, INSTALL THE STA-LOK TERMINATIONS
-
Installed a Sta-Lok stud to the bottom of each upper shroud. Then screwed a turnbuckle to each and attached it to its respective chain plate. Tensioned the rigging really
tight.
-
Marked each shroud where the spreader is to rest on its
sleeve; ~12' 3.75" from the top.
- I stood on a ladder resting against the
back of the mast
to apply tape to each shroud, just under the spreader.
-
Lowered mast, crimped sleeves,
slipped in vinyl sleeves, attached vinyl spreader caps. Did a thorough inspection of all rigging
components to confirm Panache is ready for
another rounding of the "Horn".
Starboard turnbuckles ready for Blue Wave smart pins.
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Fig 7, JOB DONE. (A shot of Scotch
never tasted so good!)
In the final assessment, the upper and lower shrouds were cut to factory length and fit like a glove with turnbuckles screwed in 1/3. In the photo below I've tightened the turnbuckles really hard to remove as much construction stretch as possible during the 3 weeks the mast stood till launch day. The next day a cold front blew through that shook the rigging quite a bit and covered the deck with snow. That shaking helped to remove a lot of construction stretch and couldn't have happened at a more opportune time. Nothing like an initiation from Mother Nature to test new hardware. It will take a few days (~15 hrs) of sailing to remove the last of the
stretch though.
PS: Since I use the trailer winch to step the mast I no longer extend the mast support post as shown here.
At this point in time all the rigging, except the back stay, is secured with a Sta-Lok termination on 5/32" SS wire. Only the top of
the backstay has a swaged fitting (factory original) and the open end of that fitting points down so I'm
not concerned about it now. But I do have enough 5/32" wire left to
replace it. I've completed the last tasks;
crimped the Nicopress
sleeves under the spreaders, installed the spreader ends, locked the fork cotter pins at each
mast tang, and greased the turnbuckles
so I'm
going sailing this season. Its a thing of beauty when
a project comes together after so long. I can't wait to get on the water.
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PARTS LIST for 5/32" SHROUD INSTALLATION. |
The box of goodies I received from RIGGING ONLY.
These people really know their stuff and give excellent service.
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4 ea - Hayn LH Jaw & Body Turnbuckle, 5/16" thread, 5/16" pin, forged T-Toggle, (shrouds). |
SKU: 516FBJ |
4 ea - Sta-Lok Stud, 5/32"
or 4mm wire
X5/16" UNF right hand thread, (bottom fitting). |
SKU: 136-04 |
4 ea - Sta-Lok Fork, 5/32" wire X1/4" pin, (top fitting). |
SKU: SLFK0508 |
2 ea - Sta-Lok Wedge, for 1x19, 5/32"
wire (spares). |
SKU: 138-04-1 |
1 pkg of 5
- Sta-Lok Former, 5/32" wire (spares). |
SKU: SLFO05-PK5 |
58' - 5/32" 1x19 wire, type 316 SS. (2 upper shrouds) |
SKU: 5321x19316 |
27' - 5/32" 1x19 wire, type 316 SS. (2 lower shrouds) |
SKU: 5321x19316 |
Blue Wave smart
pins for open turnbuckle, 5/16". (Binnacle.com) |
16077 |
TOTAL |
~$725.00 US (2021) |
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Replacement Cost? Considering that the Sta-Lok terminations are reusable, I would only have to buy 100' of wire & 12 Sta-Lok formers and wedges (cones) to replace this rigging. This is a minor expense.
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~$110.00 (2021 cost) |
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TUNE THE RIGGING ON THE WATER (Summer 2021)
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After setting the mast straight and adjusting the rigging tension we motored the length of the lake over flat water to Panache's slip. The rig adjustments were "tweaked" in the slip later that day using the Loos PT-1 tension gauge at right. During my first sail I cruised around at near hull speed for the afternoon, heeled at 200 for as much as possible. I was impressed with the lack of stretch the new 5/32"
wire has. Maybe its "waxed car" syndrome but Panache sure felt
solid. By the end of the afternoon the leeward shrouds showed a bit of slack that was taken up with one turn of the turnbuckles. By mid season I've tightened the rigging twice, 1/2 turn each time. In both cases the leeward shrouds were just loose at 200 heel. I'll continue to monitor the rigging but I doubt there will be anymore adjustments. In early August I confirmed the rig tension with a Loos Gauge again and I was pleasantly surprised with how equal my field adjustments were compared to measured tension. At this time I released one lower shroud 1/2 turn to straighten the mast which equalized all the measured shroud tensions. As it turns out the gauge showed wire strain at ~12% loading on all shrouds (noted by the pointer at 31) which demonstrates that adjusting the rig tension as per Clark's instructions works. The rigging has stopped stretching as the tension has held steady for the remainder of the summer. At the end of the season Panache experienced a near knockdown with no change in rigging tension. Good stuff.
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UPDATE
REPLACE PANACHE'S 1977 FACTORY BACKSTAY (Spring 2024).
upper backstay, lower split wire, boom topping lift. After reassessing Panache's factory 1/8" backstay, it was upgraded due to old age. When the wire of the previous split backstay pulled out of its single Nicopress sleeve, it changed my understanding of the forces involved. For these two reasons the entire backstay was replaced to match the rest of the 5/32" standing rigging. It could also be that I'm sailing Panache harder since upgrading to 5/32" rigging but that certainly wasn't the case when the wire separated! Regardless, the backstay upgrade is relatively easy to do and I'm not about to loose the mast over a simple upgrade. See Tech Tip F09 for caution note that initiated this replacement and
backstay tensioner details.
Panache's backstay tension at rest was measured at ~7% of load (160 lbs) and when tightened at ~15% of load (320 lbs).
A Loos strain gauge has an accuracy of +5%.
FABRICATE NEW 5/32" BACKSTAY (Fall 2023). The top portion of the new 5/32" backstay has Sta-Lok eye fittings at the top and bottom. NOTE - This is one of those times when I received misleading information about the casting of the SJ23 masthead. I was told it changed over the years and an early version may not accept an eye fitting. Obviously this is not the case as can be seen in Fig 2, but it is best to verify this against your boat.
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Fig 1, MASTHEAD - The new backstay will fit in the aft groove with the 5/16" pin securing both the Stay-Lok eye fitting and the boom topping lift bale. The factory backstay was removed in this photo to fabricate a new one.
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Fig 2, MASTHEAD - The masthead showing the Dyneema boom topping lift and backstay eye fitting in place on the pin. The lighter topping lift should not interfere with the telltales and minimize chafe on the mainsail. |
Fig 3, WIRE BLOCK - The bottom Stay-Lok eye fitting bolts directly to the wire block, making a neat connection.
NOTE -
I don't have a use for the shackle at the top of this block but it behoves me to remove it. The second I do, I guarantee you I will need it for something. Murphy strikes again. Aaarch. |
Fig 4, STAY-LOK FITTINGS - The new 24' coil of 5/32" backstay wire with Stay-Lok fittings terminated.
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BOOM TOPPING LIFT - The factory 3/32" SS boom topping lift usually droops with a tendency to snag a leech tell tale, threatening to tear it off. In any case:
1/8" Dyneema line is light so it should fly off the mainsail to not interfere with the tell tales.
It is slippery so a tell-tale should pull off easily.
It is soft so it shouldn't chafe the mainsail leech.
It is strong enough to support the mast should the backstay break.
The line is strong enough to lift a person out of the water but I hope never to have to do it.
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Fig 5, BOOM TOPPING LIFT - The 1/8" Dyneema line ready for installation.
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FABRICATE NEW 1/8" SPLIT WIRE (Fall 2023). The bottom split wire portion of the adjuster was fabricated with new wire and Nicopress sleeves. A single oval, zinc plated, copper Nicopress compression sleeve can support 90% of the breaking strength of the 7x19 wire, if it is swaged correctly. To exceed 100% strength on Panache, the split wire will be reconstructed using dual sleeves, spaced ~1/8" apart, with each sleeve swaged 3 times. The protruding wire will be at least 2 cable diameters long, prior to swaging. View "How to Select and Crimp a Swage Sleeve" for more details. It will be next to impossible to fabricate a new backstay to the same length as the previous so for this reason the safety wire was cut to length after the mast was standing, in Spring 2024.
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WIRE BLOCK - The overall ratio of this adjuster is 8:1. When the 4:1 block and tackle tightens all the load is imposed on the wire block. With 50% of the load on either side of the split wire the dual Nicopress sleeves at each eye must hold this force. This is why all components must fit precise and be swaged to spec.
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NICOPRESS SLEEVES - A close up of new sleeves swaged ~1/8" apart. Each sleeve should be swaged 3 times but due to the width of the tool jaws they are swaged twice. Note the SS thimble in each eye. It rests around a matching size compression tube to eliminate point loading on the bolt.
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All the prefabrication of the backstay components is complete. The final assembly was be done in Spring 2024.
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PARTS LIST for 5/32" BACK STAY - RIGGING ONLY. |
2 ea - Sta-Lok Eye, 5/32" wire, 5/16" pin, (Top & bottom fittings). |
SKU: SLEY0510 |
1 pkg - Sta-Lok Wedge, for 1x19, 5/32"
wire (5 spares). |
SKU: 126-04 |
1 pkg - Sta-Lok Formers, 5/32" wire (5 spares). |
SKU: 115-04 |
24' - 5/32" 1x19 wire, type 316 SS. (backstay upper wire). |
SKU: 5321x19316 |
~15 ' 1/8" 7x19 wire, type 316 SS. (split & safety wire). |
SKU: 5321x19316 |
10 copper 1/8" Nicopress sleeves. (for safety & split wire). |
SKU: SLC18 |
TOTAL |
~125.00 $ US (2023) |
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