Index

Step the Mast Using an A-Frame - The Civilized Way.
Construct A-Frame - Poles, Foot Hinge, Apex Hinge,
Pull A-Frame - 4:1 Blocks, Trailer Winch, Electric Winch,
Mast - Mast Hinge Pin, Temporary Shrouds, Transom Support Post,
Procedures - Mast Stepping Procedure with 2 Methods to Pull A-Frame,
Parts (Oops) - Buy SJ Rigging Parts.
 

In a trucker's world an A-frame secured to the back of a flat deck truck is usually called a "gin pole" and is used to easily lift a heavy object on or off the deck or manoeuvre it across the yard.  It is a very convenient tool to "lift & walk" a heavy object for a short distance.  An A-frame mounted on the end of a work barge is a very robust yet simple crane.  You don't see this type of A-frame used much anymore because it is quicker to rotate a hydraulic knuckle crane mounted in the middle of the barge than rotate the whole barge.  As late as the mid 1900s sail driven canal boats in the Netherlands were equipped with an A-frame as a permanent deck fixture to raise or lower the mast so the boat could slide under a fixed bridge.  The boat's momentum carried it past the bridge and the mast was raised on the other side to resume sailing.  This procedure had to operate very smooth and quick so the vessel would not loose way and block the canal to other commercial traffic.  It was considered a major blunder if you screwed up the procedure.  Unfortunately you don't see this technique anymore either, diesel propulsion having pushed sail aside.

In the trailerable sailboat world, an A-frame can come into its own for stepping a mast.  The advantage of using an A-frame is the mechanical advantage to reduce the lifting effort.  The longer the A-frame is relative to the mast length, the greater the mechanical advantage.  The control that you have leads to the second advantage, safety; in large part because you don't have to stand under the unsupported mast!  If you step the mast hand over hand, with the aid of a block and tackle connected to the forestay, then you must also steady the mast sideways so you don't twist the deck plate off.  The most difficult part of stepping a mast is the transition from standing in the cockpit to standing on the cabin roof.  It is during this CRITICAL TRANSITION that the deck plate is usually twisted loose.  This is also when the odds of dropping the mast increase and you twist your back out of alignment.  Suffice it to say that the less time the mast is in the unsupported transition zone the better.  If the wind is strong use some temporary shrouds.  Don't rely on a lull in the wind, especially if it is really strong.  Ultimately you might be better off waiting it out in a coffee shop.
 

MAST HINGE PIN (1990) - The factory hinge pin is difficult to insert through the four misaligned mast base holes or to remove it since there is no handle on the pin.  For this reason I made a replacement pin from 1/4" SS rod.  One end is bent back on itself to create a 1" diameter loop for easy control and the pointy end is tapered for easy insertion through the four holes.  To lock the pin I drilled a hole through the rod for a tiny hair pin.  You could drill another hole near the ring for a second pin.  TOP

A-FRAME CONSTRUCTION (1999) - Fabricate your A-frame in the sequence that the components are described here to minimize your chances of making an error:

1. Cut the poles to length, about 101".
2. Attach the hinge plate to the foot of each pole.
3. Bolt each hinge plate to its T-extrusion.
4. Screw the T-extrusion on it's mating foot pad while the pad is aligned to the toe rail.
5. Cross the pole ends to form the apex and drill a common hole through both poles using a single long bit to make the hinge. 

By following these steps you eliminate complex measuring that will likely be off by several degrees resulting in a misaligned hinge that will bind or can't pivot.  The chances of you measuring it correct are minimal!  Remember, Murphy! 

1 - Poles - The 2" OD aluminum poles of my A-frame are 101" long and have 1/4" thick wall.  This thickness is overkill to the N^th degree but the price was right; 1/8" thick wall is sufficient, similar to a spinnaker pole or electrical conduit.  See COMMENT below.  The distance from the pivot bolt at the foot to the hinge bolt at the apex is 99" with 1" of pole beyond the apex hinge.  With the A-frame laying on the deck, the apex fits just short of the forestay fitting, leaving room to transfer the forestay from the A-frame to the deck fitting.  If you decide to make your poles longer, keep in mind that the apex must not block the stem fitting for attaching the forestay.  It is prudent to attach the forestay to the fitting quickly to secure the mast and protect the safety of the people standing in the drop zone.  It is also convenient to leave the A-frame on deck for trailering or winter storage, as seen in these two  photos.

If you want to fabricate an A-frame for a larger sailboat, scale the dimensions up proportionally.  The length of the poles should be from the mast step to the forestay fitting.  The pole diameter and wall thickness should be equivalent (or bigger) to a spinnaker pole designed for your boat.  If the assembly is too long then consider two shorter poles joined with a sleeve.  This would allow you to store the A-frame in a small space.  This is a great way to go if you are a globe trotting sailor who wants to be independent of shore services.

2 - Foot Hinge & Deck Pads - You can make a fully articulating hinge so the poles always align to the deck or you can make a simple hinge, aligned to the plane the poles pivot on.  I built the latter design because I had the material and was in a bit of a hurry to launch. 
The top half of the hinge plate consists of a 1/4" thick aluminum fitted inside the bottom of a pole and fastened with a 3/8" bolt with two centering spacers.  The spacers are short sections of aluminum tube cut from a ski pole.  (profile diagram of hinge assembly).  Notice the two notches cut into the pole to fit the plate into.  The spacers and notches hold the plate firmly along the center line of the pole.  The plate is bent 25⁰ to align with the aluminum T-extrusion (bottom plate of hinge) on the deck pad.  The T-extrusions must lie parallel to the center line of the hull (the turning axis of the hinge) so the frame can pivot preferably a full 135⁰.  At the hinge location draw an imaginary line across the deck and another one over the hinge, fore & aft, parallel to the center line.  This is your pivot point and axis of rotation.  The curvature of the deck can fool you when taking measurements.  Be careful. (If you use a full articulating ball joint here, you can dispense with all of this critical alignment as the hinge would pivot freely regardless of the angle of the poles.  Aviation type ball joints are not cheap but they work very well.  The aircraft industry and farm implements use them extensively for perfect alignment of control arms). 

The hole in the hinge plate is drilled slightly forward of center so the A-frame can lay flat on the fore deck.  The two deck pads are made of (2x8)" spruce to protect the gel-coat and are coated with tung oil to prevent rot.  The 3" long aluminum T-extrusions are screwed to the center of each deck pad.  Thus the hinge operates freely through the full 135⁰ arc that the frame must operate.  With the deck pad wedged against the toe rail and tied to the stanchion, the pad doesn't move.  All of this may sound complicated, as it takes a bit of finagling to bend the hinge plates just right, but both hinges must turn freely.  Take your time with this part of the job.  Patience has its rewards!  

Once the A-frame is placed on deck, mark the bottoms of the poles with a felt pen as starboard and port for the next time you hoist the mast.  It may not be obvious now but you'll thank me later for this tid bit of advice!  

3 - Apex Hinge - The simplest way to create a strong hinge at the apex is to overlap the ends of the poles.  I was well on the way to making a fancy hinge when common sense prevailed!   The cross lap joint may look unsophisticated but is strong, it works, is easier to make and stores well. 
Assemble the foot hinges first, place the assembly on the deck with the deck pads tied to the stanchions, cross lap the poles to form the A-frame, clamp them together and drill a pilot hole through the middle of both poles.  Be very careful in drilling the pilot holes as alignment is critical.  If you are off even by a little bit, the hinge will bind.  Drill out the holes to 1/2."  Then insert a 1/2" hinge bolt with a nut as a spacer between the poles to create room for the eye bolt nuts.  The two eye bolts (cast type are strongest) are through bolted just below the apex hinge bolt.  Finally, test your frame by swinging it through the full 135⁰ arc of travel. 
The forestay attaches to the aft facing eye bolt and the 4:1 block and tackle or winch line attaches to the forward eye bolt.  At right you see the apex of the A-frame with the block and tackle in place.  I tow Panache regularly with the A-frame hanging just below the mast, unless somebody has borrowed my A-frame! 

4a - Pull A-Frame with 4:1 Block & Tackle - I have pulled Panache's A-frame with a 4:1 block & tackle till 2021.  If you pull by hand, you require ~90' of 3/8" line.  90' leaves a long tail section that allows the person to stand well out of the drop zone.  Some people are squeamish about a stick falling on them!  Jam tarts!  If you're going to crank the mast up using one of your primary winches, then make the line ~130' long. 
NOTE - If you ever had a desire to install self tailing primary winches, there is no better justification than stepping the mast.  With a self tailing winch you can safely stop in mid lift to correct a snag, although it is safest to also secure the line around a cleat when you leave a winch.
 

4b - Pull A-Frame with Trailer Winch (2022) - In the end of 2021 I helped a friend lower his mast and discovered how easy it is to pull the A-frame using a trailer winch.  He uses 2" wide woven seat belt webbing for a hoist line that packs tight on the drum.  On Panache I have to run the hoist line over the anchor roller to get around the bow.  Since the flat portion of an anchor roller isn't wide enough for 2" webbing I use 1/2" (12mm) polyester line over the port roller.  The port roller lines up with the bottom eye on the port bar.  The 2 speed trailer winch has a ratchet that locks in either direction so it can stop in mid lift, giving me a chance to release a snag.

So as an experiment at end of the 2022 season I lowered Panache's mast using the trailer winch.  The mast went down with the greatest of ease.  Of course I had to try lifting the mast from horizontal, which the winch handled easily in low range.  I always found that lifting the mast from horizontal with the block & tackle, is impossible to do without an initial lift in the cockpit.

• The new winch hoist line is 20' of 1/2" (12mm) triple plait polyester, (~5080 lb. BS & 710 lbs SWL). 

• The trailer eye hook is spliced on the end of the line with 6 tucks into the standing line plus a taper.

• It took ~4 weeks to remove most of the construction stretch and harden the line by tensioning it really tight in the rain and sun.  Hard line packs tight under load on the winch drum without jamming between the turns; an absolute must for hoisting.  By tensioning the line to ~500 pounds it tested the overall strength to ensure it can handle the lift.  Better to discover it can hold this now than to see it fail while hoisting the mast!  It would be nice to know how much load is on the hoist line but I don't have a strain gauge to measure that.

• The winch drum is full with 20' of 1/2" line.  This leaves ~4 turns of line on the drum to start the pull during the heaviest point of the hoist, when the mast is horizontal and the A-frame is vertical.

• The alternative hoist line is 2" wide woven polyester seat belt webbing (~6000 lb. BS).  However, it must run over a flat 2" wide anchor roller to load up the longitudinal fibres uniformly. 

For now the 4:1 block & tackle will be left on the A-frame in the rare case the mast has to be stepped on water.  I have never pursued single handed stepping of the mast as I've always had somebody to help me.  There are fewer guys around to help these days so this technique is a timely welcome addition.  This is the technique I now use to hoist Panache's mast. 

4c - Pull A-Frame with Electric Winch (alternate technique) - A variation of stepping the mast with the trailer winch is to use an electric off-road winch.  In the installation shown here the winch is fastened to the front of the trailer frame to get the hoist line past the bow.  If you have a long tongue on the trailer, fasten it there.  Besides the large torque of an electric motor, this style winch has internal gears to increase the pulling power.  The electrical power comes directly from the truck battery and alternator, which is standard practice to power an off-road winch and is well within limits of the electrical system.  He hoisted the mast using an A-frame connected directly by the forestay.  The nice thing about this procedure is that you have a remote control to operate the winch.  Not sure what his backup is if the winch quits.  I doubt that mast hoisting is much of a load for this winch.

I think this includes pretty well all the popular techniques of hoisting the mast.  If you have an alternate technique of hoisting the mast, I'd be interested to hear from you.  Bob. _TOP
 

The problem of tying temporary shrouds to the SJ23 toe rail is that this elevation is below the pivot point of the mast.  As a result they go slack when the mast is lowered, rendering them useless.  The key to solving this is to artificially raise the toe rail to the pivot height of the mast foot thereby maintaining tension for the full arc of stepping the mast.
This can be done by securing a bridle to the toe rail on either side of the mast as shown below.  The steel ring, tied at the middle of each bridle, then becomes the elevated pivot point that is at the same height as the mast base. 
With the A-frame supporting the weight of the mast and the temporary shrouds controlling the side swing you have total control of the mast.  As a result, I can handle the A-frame hoist line from the safety of the trailer winch, the fore deck or the side of the cockpit.  All of these places are preferable to standing in the drop zone of the mast, the center of the cockpit.  The benefits of safety and control far exceed the extra setup time.

The bottom of each temporary shroud consists of a bridle e/w 2 small carabineers and a welded ring (above left) plus a shroud with a loop tied at the top (above right).  The bridle lines are unequal in length to position the ring adjacent to the mast given the unequal spacing of the toe rail holes.  Each ring is positioned beside the mast, at mast foot height.  To ease use, the bridle and shroud are permanently spliced to each other with the aft line marked.  Carabineers are used to clip to the toe rail.  Panache's temporary shrouds are 11' 7" long, fitting to about a foot below the spreaders to allow for a bit of give.  The line is low stretch 5/16" polyester. 

WRAP HALYARD - Wrapping a halyard around the mast to secure the temporary shrouds worked OK but it choked on the mast.  This made it difficult to slide up/down the mast which is why I abandoned the technique.  The slippery rigging sleeve shown below slides but has another problem.  So still searching.
RIGGING SLEEVE - In 2023 I modified a surplus rigging sleeve (Kevlar fiber covered in nylon webbing) to secure the temporary shrouds to the mast.  This sleeve goes through a loop at the top of each temporary shroud and a carabineer closes the open end.  It is hoisted by the spinnaker halyard clipped to the carabineer on the forward side of the mast.  To stand the mast you must first pull the sleeve up the mast to tension the temp shrouds equally.  Once the mast is standing, you pull it down to remove the temp shrouds.  To lower the mast you first pull the sleeve up the mast to tension the shrouds equally.  I always leave them in place during winter storage.  This Kevlar sleeve slides quite easy which makes the job so much quicker.
I was in a hurry when stepping the mast & snagged a lazy jack in the rigging sleeve draped around the mast.  Oh well.	Spinnaker halyard holding sleeve at front of the mast.  Shrouds are tight.
With the temporary shrouds snug you are ready to raise/lower the mast using the steps below.  You'll be pleasantly surprised to see how well they keep the mast centered and how easy the trailer winch can pull the mast up using the A-frame.  Keep in mind that Panache's mast is now a tad heavier with the roller furler.  When lowering the mast the temporary shrouds consistently guide the mast into the yoke at the top of the transom mast support.  Talk about slick.  Down is obviously a lighter load than up.  Progress.  IMPORTANT - Once the mast is standing, the temporary shrouds are quite easy to pull down by releasing the spinnaker halyard and pulling both shrouds. There is basically no give in the temporary shrouds.  I have stepped the mast in a 15 knot side wind with no problem and it always settled on the transom support. Here is a variation of this technique using a sliding spinnaker ring on a mast track.  http://www.klackospars.com/about/mast-raising-magic.html.	The sleeve and the temporary shrouds bundled up for the Fall lowering job.

TOP
 

TELESCOPIC TRANSOM SUPPORT POST (2020) - Whenever I stepped the mast with the 4:1 block and tackle pulling the A-frame, my buddy pulled the hoisting line while I stood across the cockpit seats to lift the mast to arms length.  Two problems;
   - The 4:1 block and tackle with A-frame does not have quite enough mechanical advantage to lift the mast from horizontal.
   - I wanted to slide the mast aft without it falling off the roller. 

I lost my buddy to age limitations so modified my technique by making the support post telescopic by 24" and added a roller.  This allowed me to place the mast on the roller (about 15⁰ up from horizontal) with lateral support lines tied to the pushpit, making it easier to pull the mast up on my own.  Lifting it was getting harder each year! 

UPDATE: Now that I use my trailer winch to hoist the mast I no longer extend the support post.  The two sections are bolted together through the locking pin hole.  The only part I still use is the roller with extended yoke sides at the top. TOP

MAST STEPPING PROCEDURE (Pull A-Frame with Trailer Winch or a 4:1 Block-n-tackle) - Before putting the mast up, inspect the standing rigging where it attaches to the mast and deck.  All cotter pin ends must be rolled over leaving nothing sticking out and show no sign of fatigue.  All nuts must be screwed tight to full depth.  The wire must have no strands standing proud of a swaged fitting, no broken strands sticking out ("meat hooks") or kinks between the end fittings and the turnbuckle toggles are not bent.  While this A-frame makes it safer to step the mast and possible to do the job on your own, the job is easiest with two people.  OK, so lets put the stick UP.

1. SAFETY - Ensure the sailboat is on the shore side of any overhead obstruction or electrical line.  An aluminum mast must keep at least 57' (20M) away from a high voltage line to prevent arcing to the mast.  (from the National Electrical Safety Code, NESC Handbook).
   
   - Stepping a sailboat mast is a delicate & dangerous task.  Observe the steps and safety precautions listed below to reduce the possibility of injury or damage.
   
   When I step Panache's mast at the ramp, I keep the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle so it can't rock or roll away.  Geez that would be embarrassing and the wrong reason to be on YouTube.  However, Panache's weight distribution on the trailer is such that the mast can be stepped without the tow vehicle attached.
   HINT - If you step the mast on water, it should be flat calm and use temporary shrouds to control the side swing of the mast.  The boat rocks too much when walking on the deck and the risk of twisting the deck plate loose is too great.  The only time I stepped the mast without temporary shrouds is documented in the photos below.  I will NOT step the mast without temporary shrouds again.  Years later I stepped it again on flat water using temporary shrouds and all worked fine. 
    
2. FRUSTRATION SAVER - Wear a tool apron with pockets to hold tools as you walk around the boat.  It saves the frustration of stumbling over loose rigging to grab an errant tool you left lying at the other end of the deck.
    
3. WINDEX & ANTENNA - Attach the Windex and VHF antenna while you can still reach the masthead from the cockpit.  Do a double take on both to ensure they are aligned and tight.  Its a real pain to lower the stick again just to tighten a set screw. 
   HINT - I remove the Windex for highway travel but leave the antenna in place.
    
4. PLACE A-FRAME - It is assumed the A-frame is still on the fore deck with the apex at the bow and the deck pads wedged against the toe rail on the forward side of each mid stanchion.  The poles are marked starboard and port to place it correctly the first time.  Each deck pad is secured with short lines tied around the stanchion & toe rail to prevent slippage. 
   HINT - In practice the deck pads on Panache's A-frame stay wedged against the stanchions and never slip, but security is a good thing.  The A-frame stays on deck over winter.
    
5. RIGGING - It is assumed the mast is still in place since the previous take down with the shrouds attached to their respective mast tangs, spreaders and chain plates; the backstay is attached to the mast head and chain plate; the forestay is attached to the mast head with the turnbuckle ready to connect to the stem.
   HINT - If this is your first time with SJ23 rigging, read the SJ23 manual to assemble it correctly and ensure that no wires are crossed that would prevent the mast from standing.
    
6. LOOSEN SHROUD TURNBUCKLES 3/8" - It is assumed that all shroud turnbuckles are still loosened 3/8" from their tuned sailing position since the previous take down.  The 3/8" of slack prevents stretching the shrouds, turnbuckles, chain plates, deck seals, and bulkheads when the mast pivots UP on the hinge as the mast approaches ~30⁰ aft of vertical. 
   HINT - A tie wrap or line wrapped around the thread at the tuned sailing position can reveal the required 3/8" of exposed thread when the barrel is loosened.  Ensure there is at least 1/2" of thread is screwed into each barrel. 
   - Tape the 2 shroud turnbuckle toggles together in the upright position.  Do this for each side. 
   - Tape the back stay turnbuckle toggle in the upright position.
   Now all turnbuckles can pivot freely on their T-bolts without the toggles binding and breaking as the mast arcs its way up or down.
    
7. SPLIT BACKSTAY TURNBUCKLE - It is assumed the turnbuckle barrel was removed and the backstay tension control line was loosened 8" to the knot that limits travel since the previous take down.  Retrieve the stored turnbuckle barrel and place it in the back of the cockpit, ready to install once the mast is vertical.  (Panache is E/W roller furling and the backstay must be loosened to insert/release the forestay pin).
    
8. TEMPORARY SHROUDS, (To eliminate side swing of the mast while stepping) - It is assumed the temporary shrouds are still in place and the settings have not changed since the previous take down: bridles clipped to each toe rail, the top of each temporary shroud is secured to the sleeve around the mast (~1 below the spreaders) and the spinnaker halyard is clipped to the sleeve. 
   HINT - If the temporary shrouds have been loosened, the lengths can be set correctly by tightening the spinnaker halyard with the mast slid aft and the foot pin in the deck hinge plate. (See step 11
    
9. TRANSOM SUPPORT POST - It is assumed the transom support post is still tied with the two lateral support lines from the top of the post to the front of each pushpit.  This steadies and supports the post for rolling the mast aft.  The post is left short for hoisting with the mechanical advantage of the trailer winch.
   HINT - If I have to raise the mast on the water using the block & tackle, I temporarily transfer the mast from the post to my shoulder, extend the post, and place the mast back on the roller.  Then I push the mast aft on the roller.
    
10. SLIDE MAST AFT - Release all tie down lines along the mast, close the companionway sliding hatch (avoid stepping on it to protect the solar panels), stand on the foredeck and push the mast aft on the roller until the holes in the mast foot line up with the holes in the deck hinge plate.  Hold the foot of the mast down to insert the hinge pin followed by the hair pin to lock it.
    - The lines that hold the shrouds to the cabin top hand rails hold the turnbuckles up slightly to keep you from stepping on them while walking on the deck.
     

    SAFETY - The condition of the fasteners that hold the foot casting to the bottom of the mast extrusion MUST be very secure.  The mast foot undergoes a tremendous amount of torque when the mast is stepped.  If the fasteners are worn loose, replace them with 1/4" NF stainless steel machine screws.  Drill out the rivet holes and tap a thread through the foot casting.  Snug up the screws and secure them with marine sealant to prevent movement and corrosion.  If the hole is tapped correctly, NF machine screws are stronger than pop rivets.  Not comfortable with machine screws?  Install the biggest SS pop rivet you can find.

     

11. CONNECT HALYARDS TO A-FRAME - I find that stepping the mast hand over hand is risky unless there are a couple of "line backers" handy on the parking lot.  It can be stepped with control using an A-frame pulled with the trailer winch, an electric winch, or a block & tackle with a primary winch.
    
    A - Pull A-Frame with Trailer Winch (2022) or Electric Winch.
    - Attach the winch line to the bottom eye bolt of the A-frame.  Let out enough line to tilt the A-frame just past vertical.  Its possible reach the apex while standing on the cabin.
    - Attach the 2 jib halyards (in case one breaks) to the top of each arm with 2 wraps around the pipe then clipped to itself.  The wall thickness of Panache's A-frame is thick enough to handle this load.  Divide the tension equally between the 2 halyards secured to cleats at the bottom of the mast.
    - Attach the forestay to the top eye bolt. 
    IMPORTANT - If you have roller furling you must protect the foil when stepping the mast, especially with an aluminum foil.  I leave it to your understanding of your system to take the necessary precautions.  The advantage of a flexible furler is that it can safely flex under its own weight while stepping the mast.
    - Tension the temporary halyards by tightening the spinnaker halyard.
    - Tilt the A-frame ~80⁰ between it and the mast and snug up the trailer winch line with the winch ratchet set for hoist.  Use low speed for raising or lowering the mast.
    - Secure all loose lines to the mast to eliminate clutter. 
    SAFETY - While I could step the mast on my own at this point, it isn't the goal since the job is safer and quicker with a helper.  My group of aging sailors is running out of able bodied help and anything to make the job easier allows us to continue sailing.
    
    - GO TO STEP 12.
    
    B - Pull A-Frame using 4:1 Block & Tackle & Primary Winch.
    - (Assume the top of the block & tackle is still attached to the bottom eye bolt of the A-Frame). 
    - Tilt the A-frame back till  you can reach the apex.  Attach the 2 jib halyards (in case one breaks) to the top of each arm with 2 wraps around the pipe then clipped to itself.  The wall thickness of Panache's A-frame is thick enough to handle this load.
    - Attach the forestay to the top eye bolt. 
    - Tilt the A-frame forward to vertical (~80⁰ between it and the mast) and attach the bottom end of the block & tackle to the forestay fitting.  (I have NEVER attached the bottom end to the ram's horns for fear it may slip off or the horns bend back).
    - Snug up the block & tackle, winding the free end around a primary winch & secure it to a cleat. 
       (A self tailing winch is the safest type for this job.)
    - Secure the 2 halyards at the bottom of the mast, dividing the tension equally. 
    - Tie all loose mast lines to the butt of the mast to eliminate clutter. 
    
    - GO TO STEP 12.
     

12. LAST INSPECTION & PULL A-FRAME - Take a last look around the deck to ensure all rigging is free from potential snags and all turnbuckle toggles are free to pivot fore and aft.  Breaking one can really spoil your day!
    HINT - If the adjacent turnbuckle toggles (bottom flexible portion) are taped, tie wrapped or tied together in the upright position it keeps them inline to prevent buckling while stepping the mast.  In lieu of these, shove a screw driver through adjacent toggles.  (Photo is not an SJ23). 
    - Similarly prop up (Panache) the backstay toggle with vinyl tube or tape it in the upright position. 
    
    SAFETY - If you zip tie the toggles together, cut off the tail with micro shears to leave a smooth finish that is safe to pass bare skin over.  If you poke your hand into a tie wrap that was trimmed with side cutters you will puncture your skin which is extremely painful.  If the tie wrap has any dirt on it, the wound will likely get infected which can be lethal.  A micro shear can be bought from an electronics supplier and sometimes a tool shop.
    
    A - Pull A-Frame using trailer winch - I stand on the trailer draw bar to crank the trailer winch keeping an eye over the deck for a snag.  If I have a helper I will stand on the deck next to the mast looking for a snag while the helper cranks the winch. 
    - I have hoisted the mast on my own by using the trailer winch.
    
    B - Pull A-frame using 4:1 block and tackle - My helper pulls the A-frame hoist line and I check for snags while standing on deck next to the mast. 
    - I have never been able to hoist the mast on my own by pulling the block & tackle by hand.  If I ever get self tailing primary winches for Panache I plan to stand to one side in the cockpit to pull the A-frame hoist line.  This is a good place to watch for jammed turnbuckles, snagged lines, etc.
    
    If I feel resistance with either technique, I STOP to investigate the problem.  You can do serious damage to a toggle by bending it or to the wire by kinking it.  Pull the mast up to standing quickly.  Don't dilly dally with the mast half way up. 
     

    CAUTION - Using a winch to pull an A-frame presents both safety and a danger unto itself.  If you let go of the handle the weight of the falling mast can spin the winch handle at a speed that is extremely dangerous.  This applies to the trailer winch and the primary winch. "NEVER LET GO OF THE WINCH HANDLE". A - If I have to stop hoisting and leave the trailer winch, ensure the ratchet is set and the handle is secured with a line to the trailer frame by slipping the loop over the handle. B - If I have to stop hoisting and leave the primary winch, the free end of the line is secured around a cleat.  DO NOT STAND IN THE DROP ZONE OF THE MAST.

     

13. MAST STANDING - Once the mast is standing;
    
    A - Pull A-Frame using trailer winch - With the hoist line tight (and a line slipped over the handle to secure it), I walk forward over the deck, hold the A-frame down with my body weight (this pulls the mast forward against the backstay) and transfer the forestay (no tension on it) from the A-frame to the stem fitting.  Line up the holes, push in the forestay pin and install the locking ring.  On Panache this is possible with a just slack backstay due to the weight of the furler.  Once the forestay is pinned I tighten the back stay tensioner line and screw in the turnbuckle barrel to tension the backstay.
    B - Pull A-frame using 4:1 block & tackle - Have your helper push and hold the mast forward while you transfer the forestay from the A-frame to the deck fitting.  Alternatively pull and hold the mast forward with a line around it and the free end secured to the deck.  Your choice.
     
14. CENTER THE MAST - With the mast reasonably centered (left / right), snug up each top shroud turnbuckle by turning the barrel while holding the wire from turning.  Use the free hanging mainsheet halyard to determine if the mast is centered (left / right).  Snug up the lower shroud turnbuckles.  Tension the rigging for sailing and lock the turnbuckles.  For fine tuning see Tech Tip F33.  The mast should be raked aft with the mainsail halyard touching the deck ~(6-8)" aft of the tabernacle. 
     
15. REMOVE A-FRAME & TEMPORARY SHROUDS - Now that the rigging is tensioned it is safe to remove the halyards from the A-frame and place it on the trailer.  Store the transom support post and temporary shrouds in a bag for the mast take down in the Fall.
     
16. RUNNING RIGGING - Run all halyards and reef lines to their respective terminations at the cockpit.  A really easy way to "push" a line through a rope clutch is to use a fid.  Stop using a little screw driver.
     
17. INSTALL BOOM - Install the boom on the mast. 
    - Connect the boom topping lift and main sheet. 
    - Connect the boom vang. 
    - Connect the lazy jacks run through block under each spreader. 
    - Install the mainsail and run it up the mast.
    - Connect the reefing lines. 
    - Lower the mainsail for storage on the boom. 
    - Lay the cover over the mainsail.
     

18. INSTALL JIB - If you have a roller furling jib now is the time to slide the jib up the foil and store it in the rolled position.  See Tech Tip F10.

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1. LOWER THE MAST - Reverse the hoisting procedure above to lower the mast.  Hope you can remember all this?
   There is one additional step required when lowering the mast on your own.  The mast must be pushed aft to overcome the initial resistance of the mast foot that keeps it standing.  After attaching all the required mast stepping lines:
   A - Lower A-Frame using trailer winch - Tie a 30' long line to the backstay (as high as you can reach) and send the free end forward over the deck to the trailer winch.  Start tilting the mast aft by simultaneously pulling the long line and releasing the winch line.  Keep doing this until gravity takes over and the mast falls on its own.  Once gravity takes over, continue lowering the mast with the winch line till it nestles in the crutch on the transom post.  I successfully lowered the mast on my own using this technique in 2023.
   B - Lower A-frame using 4:1 block & tackle - Push the mast aft while letting the A-frame lift line (block and tackle) out with your hand until gravity takes over and the mast falls on its own.  Once gravity takes over, continue lowering the mast by letting the lift line out till it nestles in the crutch on the transom post.

If you have never stepped a mast before, rehearse and remember this procedure so you know it cold when you do the job.  Go through the motion, doing several dry runs if you have to.  Nobody will pass judgment on such an important job as this.  Everybody appreciates a job well executed and done safely.  Practice, practice, practice till everybody understands.  The astronauts do it all the time.  If I have a "green horn" to help me, I always go through at least two dry runs with them till I know they understand.  You know they understand when that squirrelly look on their face changes to a "light bulb" smile.  If you don't get that light bulb moment, change your description of the process!  Go slowly so no steps are missed. 
"I once helped a guy lower his mast and quickly discovered he knew very little about the procedure when it got stuck just above horizontal.  His lines were too short (tightened to violin tension) preventing the mast from being fully lowered.  It was scary how quickly he was willing to cut a crucial line in the urgency of the moment to prevent a deck fitting from being ripped out.  Had he done so, the mast would have dropped and likely bent.  As it was, some kind hearted dock watchers supported the mast so we could release the lines and then we all lowered the mast gently to the deck.  After discussing the problem, he still didn't realize the physics of a mast base that pivots on the cabin roof, well above the deck where the A-frame pivots.  Sometimes the obvious isn't obvious to all I guess!  But it does demonstrate the need to fully understand the physics of the job."   TOP
 

NOTE 1 - If you wish to leave the A-frame in place while towing, then suspend the apex of the frame from the mast with a line.  This prevents the frame from pounding on the deck and punching a hole through the gel-coat.  In addition, you could use a tie down line to prevent the frame from bouncing up to the mast!  To date I know of 10 A-frames that have been built using these plans.  Mine has stepped dozens of boat masts.  Hmmm, I should say this qualifies for a free grog!  

VIDEO - Link to a U-Tube video showing exactly my system on another sailboat
 

CONCLUSION - "Using an A-frame along with temporary shrouds and a strong winch takes all the worry and frustration out of stepping the mast.  There is no sideways movement.  I have no worries about stopping mid lift to check on things.  I wouldn't dare stop in the middle of a lift using the hand over hand method.  The deck pads stay in place (tied with a short line) and the A-frame hinges work perfect.  I've used this A-frame to step the mast of several other SJ23s and an SJ7.7M.  Despite the ease that I describe of stepping the mast, I still recommend it to be a two man job because shit happens when you least expect it.  That is when you need another set of hands.  If it is too windy, go find a coffee shop with your friend!" 

Replacement SJ23 Mast - If you have "an oopsy moment" with your mast or want replacement parts, contact:

SAN JUAN SAILBOATS
Stephen Jensen
1(206)714-9661 (4:30-7:30 PM Pacific, please)

Stephen has lots of parts and can get just about anything else that isn't in stock.  The masts for the New Bern SJ23 hulls were built by Kenyon Marine in Guilford, CT.  The masts for the west coast SJ23 hulls were assembled by Tom Hukle at Yacht Riggers in Seattle who basically used parts shipped from Kenyon.

Rig-Rite, Inc
1(401) 739-1140
(Sell parts for Keyon)

The masts for the SJ24, 26, 28 or 30 were made by Spar Tech which is no longer in business.  They used to be at:

SPAR TECH
15230 NE, 92 St.
Redmond, Washington.
1(425) 883-2126
 

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